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Tableau de Parfums

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  • 3 things

    Here's a little treat for you. Three links:
    There is a draw, the first smaller of two, on PerfumeOfLife. Your chance to win samples of PHI. Here's the link.

    Here's a sketch of Ingrid from Tableau de Parfums, the way I see it, and a little story, me talking about it, on Evelyn Avenue. Here's the link.

    And here's part two, on Facebook, where I talk about the creation of the Lavender scent for Richard Lüscher Britos, covering the aspect "caring diversity", in German. Here's the link. 

     

    And today's picture shows you the first bottle of PHI-une rose de Kandahar, finding its way into the packaging. Ah, and yes, thank you all for your comments on my post yesterday, I will see that I find time to answer and learn. Great insights into vanilla!

  • Ingrid. in three weeks, she will make a first public appearance

    In three weeks from now, hard to believe, I will be in Los Angeles, together with Brian Pera, attending the official launch get together at the Scentbar for Ingrid.

    Ingrid will thus make her first public appearance at the occasion of the "vintage perfume party" at Luckyscent's scentbar. I feel that this is indeed the perfect stage for Ingrid. Here's the program: "...Come celebrate Ingrid, the new vintage-inspired scent collaboration between perfumer Andy Tauer and filmmaker Brian Pera. Then vintage-perfume expert Barbara Herman will read from her new book Scent and Subversion followed by a sniff and tell of vintage/discontinued gems from her collection and the collections of Scent Bar friends and regulars."

    Today's picture shows you some details  of the first, finished flacons that I finished decorating a couple of days ago. This is, by the way, a lot of work.  Some of them will ship in a few days to the US. So, yes, I am happy, that I can send them off, and work on papers and other scents, and I am happy that I can finally present to the world how I see Ingrid.

    I am very excited, as Ingrid is probably the most interesting scent of the three fragrances that I created for Tableau de Parfums. I think Ingrid is very beautiful.

  • into a new week, juggling news and novelties

    This week will be exciting and busy, like last week. I am moving forward with novelties that will make their appearances here, soon. This week will see me  producing a lot of samples; stocking up for existing fragrances, and for Phi, une rose de Kandahar. I will need them by early November, as I plan to offer samples early November, on a pre-sales base, with shipment mid November. Today's picture shows you yet another label and format for this new scent: the label for the 15 ml explorer set size. It is with the printing company now and I should get it in about 2 weeks, again: In time for shipment mid November. The 50 ml size bottles will be filled next week, but there we got all labels ready.

    Some of you might wonder, whether I will do draws for this scent. Actually, I won't, except that I will do my advent calendar 2013, as usual. But you have the chance to win samples, exclusively on perfumeoflife. I will be shipping 100 samples to the US very soon, and I recommend visiting perfume of life now, to make sure you're in.

    Together with the labels for the 15 ml explorer set size PHI, I sent more 15 ml size labels: Le Maroc pour elle, Rêverie au Jardin, Vetiver Dance, and ZETA- a linden blossom theme will all go into 15 ml flacons, by mid November, at the latest. So that's kind of cool, and I am curious what is going to happen then. You know: You never know.

    And then, there's Ingrid (click here for a snapshot of Ingrid in discussion with Mackie, on vimeo) , the third scent in the Tableau de Parfums series: I filled the first 50 ml bottles, the first purse spray size flacons, and I so love this scent. I haven't smelled it for a long time, as it was just sitting in my cellar and matured to perfection without me doing anything. Filling the first bottles was a nice surprise, a fresh look at a story that I worked on quite a while ago. I will present, together with Brian Pera, Ingride in LA, November 16, at the scentbar. Thus, I will need to ship some Ingrid over there in the next 2 weeks.

    And then, there's more news ahead. But I need to wait until all is ready before I can send you there.

    Have a great start into your week!

  • getting out of routine, watching the sky

    When in Russia, I had the chance to get out of the factory routine, and the daily business of facebook and messages and formula and stocking up and writing down things that need to get done. Refreshing!

    The next week of getting out of routine will be in a month from now: I will be in LA, and surroundings, launching Ingrid from Tableau de Parfums, I will spend an afternoon-evening with perfume loving fans at the scentbar on November 16. See here for details. And I will spend a few days with not much to do than watching the sky and looking into myself.

    This is sort of my privilege, travelling and havingn these down times. Sometimes. The privilege comes with a price to pay, like 12 hours working days, 7 days a week, sometimes. Thus, yes, this week will be like last week: Production from here to there, all day, and in the night mails and stuff.

    Due to a couple of unplanned happenings there is coming together a lot at tauer's in the coming weeks. I talked about PHI- une rose de Kandahar, a refreshing story built around a rose oil from Afghanistan; refreshing as I did not even think for a moment about where I am heading and what I will be doing when I run out of the rose oil that I got for this scent. I guess that's a good sign: We can still do some serious creative stuff here, like 7 years ago when I started this venture.

    Another scent getting ready right now: Ingrid, from Tableau de Parfums, mentioned a couple of times before. I will start pouring bottles next week. And then, off! they'll go for the US and after mid November for the rest of the world.

    And a few other things, that I should probably start talking about soon. Stay tuned, especially if you are in the Zurich area...

    And then we will kick off sotto la luna, finally, in the next weeks I shall start working on the labels and the design around it;  I have the conception of this line within the brand in mind and know now exactly what to do there. It will take a while to get the product out, as I want to do a lot of things there, differently and upgraded and so, but I am optimistic that by spring 2014 we will get there...

    So you see: A lot to think about when pouring those bottles in the coming days. Tomorrow, I want to talk about Apricot, and what I think about this natural extract that you usually do not find in perfumes, and what it does in PHI. Thanks for coming back. Have a great start into your week.

     

  • Looking into Loretta with its 2% Tuberose absolute and what made in mainland Switzerland means

    Although it is Friday, and hence theoretically a happy "creative Friday" day, I will not really be creative today. The job today consists primarily in packing perfumes: Miriam from Tableau de Parfums, and some adding more Incense xxx and Orange Star to the pile. Later in the day or tomorrow sees me mixing: Another batch of Loretta is ante portas.

    For that I checked with my excel where I try to keep track of all ingredients that I have in stock (it says "yes", we've got everything). I did another excel sheet for the new lot TDPL002, printed the formulafor the  mixture with the empty cells for the batch numbers of the ingredients and thus, I am ready. For every batch of perfume that I mix I write and document all the batch numbers of the ingredients. Thus, basically, every perfume bottle and sample that you get respectively every drop of perfume therein can be traced back, to the ingredients's individual certificates of analysis.

    Loretta comes in a cool formula., and looking back into it after quite a while, it is also brave: In the mixture of the scent goes 2% Tuberose absolute (so yes!) , 4% Patchouli, 2% orange blossom absolute, 1% rose essential oil and 2% rose absolute. Other naturals are: Cistus (c. ladaniferus), styrax pyrognized, cinnamon bark, clove oil. Some ingredients are overdosed, come in high concentrations, like vanillin in the base and salicylates that come at a stunning concentration of 14%.

    So, yes, mixing Loretta is going to be a nice scented flash back.

    Today's picture shows you what I did yesterday in the packing room: Packing 60 Loretta, 50 ml size, with DVD and mini poster and all. It is a bit a laborious packaging, but I nevertheless love it a lot. You do not get this anywhere else. So yes, I love this packaging. And yes, it is all handmade in mainland Switzerland. I think you get the message.

    Looking back to Pitti. I do not really know what to make of it. I am still suffering from sensorial overload. Let's put it that way. There was a lot. And I am so worried about me adding more to it, next year. Seriously.

  • an illustration on Evelyn Avenue, and a word on labels

    yesterday, I was sort of proud, as I sort of managed to get all all done and more. The one larger pack with scents for the US is ready. I boxed all scents and packed them ready for shipment.  Thus, I can get the "shipper's declaration" for dangerous goods (looks like this, pdf) done by an external expert. I need this to ship with Fedex. I could do it myself, provided I did a three day training etc. But I rather get it done by an expert. Next (today) will be the shipment papers, including detailed lists of what is inside the pack, who did it, etc.  I did TSCA (Toxic Substance Control Act, html) form for the US customs and normally, with all the papers put on the packaging, the large parcels to the US go through customs smoothly. Praised be the US customs, in comparison to EU levels of logjam.

    And besides a few other things, I did the last adjustment round for the labels of the scents that I plan to present Saudi Arabia later this year. The labels  inside and outside of packed perfumes are sometimes different, depending on where the scent goes to. Thus, for some markets at least, my packing scents is more or less just in time. I just try to make sure that I have filled bottles. This has the advantage that I can easily provide correct labels for regions with very specific labeling standards. Like Saudi Arabia, where I have to put on Arabic warning messages, and an adjusted list of ingredients. My designer super guru provided me with Adobe Illustrator templates that I can adjust myself with Illustrator and print them later, myself again, giving me the flexibility to ship one boxed bottle to Saudi Arabia, if I wished to do so. This is, basically, also how I will be able to ship "une rose de Kandahar" (if ever the scent is ready): by producing a few dozens of labels for it. Think: super flexible.

    Anyhow, the labels for Saudi Arabia are now with an agency, located in France, that will register my products and if all goes well, I will be allowed to ship to Saudi Arabia, after the packed perfumes have been inspected here, in Zurich, by yet another representative of this agency.

    So you see: creating a scent is one thing; producing it is another dimension, and shipping it and making sure it gets beyond the borders is another challenge.

    But I do not want to bore you with shipment logistics any longer. Here is a link to an article that I wrote for my column on Evelyn Avenue, on code, painting and beyond. And you will find the illustration there, on Evelyn Avenue, from my digital sketchbook, that I did in France. Enjoy this read and please leave a comment there, if you wish.

    And yes, talking about Evelyn Avenue: The next label related task. I have to start working on the labels for the next scent in the series: Ingrid!

     

     

  • under the moon end July

    Today's picture shows you the moon over Zurich, rising yesterday behind the trees. Sotto la luna: Me, with my Nikon, trying to keep it steady, and trying to find an optimum between underexposure and sharpness. I don't own a tripod, and after what felt like 200 mails keeping the hand steady was quite a challenge. It was a tropical evening here in Zurich, and what the picture does not show you are the clouds behind me, holding the camera steady. As always, this picture shows you only half the truth.

    Behind me taking the picture a thunderstorm was building up and 30 minutes later it started to rain, quite enjoyably, with the moon still sitting on a cloudless dark blue canvas.

    I went to bed, with a drop of an undiluted remix of the rose "de Kandahar", experimental still. I do this sometimes, impatient as I am, not wanting to wait these 1-3 weeks until a scent can go into an experimental dilution. I felt that I needed to work a bit on the latest mixture, on the base, adding a bit more strength, without destroying the rose that should continue blooming in the center. So I did version 3.3 . And a little drop went to bed, and still lingers on the arm. I mentioned it before: I take a break, two weeks, and when back, this rose goes into dilution.

    While taking a break, I will think about a lot of stuff that needs to be figured out. Somehow. This rose that I just mentioned: Being a Christmas special. But how to do it exactly?Which bottle? How to offer it to retailers, to my perfume loving friends, and how to talk about it without falling into the many traps there are!

    Sotto la luna -taking up today's picture- will also be high, high, very high on the list. I had a great "show me yours and I show you mine" exchange of ideas, an open discussion, ground zero,  about what to do there with my designer super guru. Sotto la luna, and the scents that I have ready there; they ARE super important. Especially the fragrances. For me they mean a very big step forward. Some of the best, most interesting I have done so far (sorry, I am totally biased there, and not a bit modest). Thus, sotto la luna is important.

    And so are two, three other scents that are ready and need a format, at least a window to showcase them, for the moment, as we cannot do everything all the time, not now.

    When I am back from the break it will be August. And August means 1 month until Pitti Fragranze in Florence : more to think about. Basically, I need to start all over again in Italy. I am looking forward to that. But it is not easy. After a roller coaster year there.

    And I am looking forward to yet another fragrant story, rising on the horizon: Ingrid. Tableau de Parfums' third fragrant installation on and with Evelyn Avenue.

    So you see: I need a couple of evenings under the moon to figure this all out. I hope to talk here on the blog, from time to time, in the next two weeks.

    Thus, see you soon again. Au revoir!

  • Day 6 of the advent calendar

    Welcome to day 6 of the advent calendar. Today, for the first time this season, my little jasmine bush is blooming.

    It's scent: Amazing, wonderful creamy and rich, but less intense compared to a jasmine flower in the wild. Mine lives a wild life only in summer and then, by mid October, the plant needs to go inside and waits with us for the spring sun, for many months.

    So it starts blooming and I call this perfect timing: Right in time for our scented gathering where we will sniff some Jasmine absolute, and orange blossom and tuberose absolute. Ideal to compare the real thing with the extraction of the scent, made by humans, in a very smart and clever way, but still: A human piece of work. Like an abstraction. Thus, today's prize for today's draw: A sample of a fragrance where I use a lot of white flowers, Orange blossom and Tuberose absolute,.... LORETTA, from Tableau de Parfum, an ongoing collaboration with Memphis based indie movie maker Brian Pera, where I create scents that are inspired and directed by the moving pictures, the characters, their moods and the lights and colors of Brian's art.

    And as it is December 6, with the Santa Claus hopping around in this part of the world: I am picking three winners for a 1.5 ml spray sample each, wrapped in a little poster of Loretta. And as always: Good luck to you all.

    Participating is easy today : Just leave a comment and, if you wish, tell me what you think about jasmine.  A happy St. Nicolas day to you all!

    Comments closed. See day 7 of the advent calendar. Thank you!

     

  • Shipment date recommendations for the holidays

    This post brings you the recommended shipment deadlines for X-Mas gifts ordered in my online shop.

    But first things first. It is only a few days ago since I was in Paris, and yet it feels like it happened in the last century. Almost. This alone tells me how fast time seems to go by the closer we come to the festivities and the end of the year. I  guess the felt time gone by  is somewhat proportional to the tasks accomplished in this time period. Maybe it is just me getting older. Anyhow. As it feels a long time ago already, I picked today's picture and adjusted it real quick with an app on the iphone and uploaded it to share it with you.The picture shows part of the decorated window of the perfumery Marie-Antoinette, where the Loretta presentation took place (Place St. Catherine, Paris); to the left Tableau de Parfums and to the right my portrait, presenting roses and an old flacon, that I used originally to fill une rose chyprée.

    I like this image because it reminds me of the little flacon and how fast things change. I tend to forget: It is a bit more than 7 years only since I presented my first scent. It is 2.5 years only since I presented the new pentagonal flacon. And , yes, wow!, I am looking forward to a new year, 2013, with new fragrances and a changed box and more. So definitely, WOW! Things change fast these days. For everybody, almost everywhere. Remember how you shopped for X-mas presents 15 years ago? I bet you did not do it through Amazon.com, or Luckyscent.com.

    And to be honest, and in light of my impatient nature and my urge to move on: I like it that way. Let's hurry into a bright future. 2012 is so yesterday already. ...

    Just in case you want to ask me: No, the little flacon will not come back, and right now I have no plan to introduce a lower volume flacon. Just a quick note, kind of in brackets: I read a comment in one of the blogs the other day, where there was a discussion why brands do not do more decant sizes, like 5 or 15 ml. Here's why: Filling a 50ml  flacon or a 10 ml decant, packing it, labelling it, making shipment papers etc.  is all the same work. Thus, it does not pay off. Not really.

    Anyhow, brackets closed. In this blog post, I actually wanted to mention the frightening fact that between January 1 2013 and now there are the holidays! We are approaching the holidays really fast. Frightening in the sense that I am not entirely ready yet. Are you?

    Although, the truth is: I am half ready. I got all the raw materials to make this year's special soap (rose....hmmmm!) and I started a batch job in the back of my mind to come up with a Christmas card, and a few other things I want to do for the holidays. The batch job is not excecuted to completion yet, but it is running. "Batch job": I used this term quite frequently 20 years ago. It brings back memories of my days at the university in Zurich, where I had my first email account, on a VAX. It was a bit hasslesome to get into the server, and I used it mostly to get calculations done, some sort of genetic algorythms and search for similarities in genetic and protein databases. Anyhow, I sent my first email something like 23 years ago. And trust me: 23 years ago, you would not even dream of sending youtube videos links over the mail. At least me wasn't dreaming this.

    So, yes, X-mas ante portas, and with it lights and blingbling, and a lot of joy and dispair.Dispair because online placed orders arrive too late. We had a lot of communcation going forward and backward due to parcels on their way to somewhere.

    So, yes, let's use this post to announce it officially: If you want to buy presents for yourselves or someone else and you wish to see these fragrant gifts under the tree by December 24: Make sure to order early!
    CENTRAL AND SOUTH EUROPE: by December 10 at the latest.
    EASTERN EUROPE: By December 5 at the latest.
    USA, FAR EAST, AUSTRALIA: by December 5 at the latest.
    JAPAN: By December 10 at the latest.
    SOUTH AMERICA: By November 25 at the latest.

    Yes, shipment to some countries takes that long, especially the closer you come to the holidays. Have a great start into your new week! There are only 6 more to go before we hit 2013.

  • Quo non had duce

    Antonio's perfumery in Paris is called Marie-Antoinette, like the famous wife of Monsieur le Roi, Louis XVI, both decapitated, madame on October 16 1793. When she lost her head, she was call Ms. Capet, and had sort of lost most of her priviledges beforehand. She, like many others, were wiped away by a revolution, starting 1789, followed by quite a disaster in Europe. We tend to forget that revolutions normally come with bloody hands and mouth. And it is usually not the wise and gentle who surf the waves of the masses, inflamed by anger and hunger and ideas. Marie Antoinette lost her head, Europe went to war, has seen the  rise of Napoléon,  who -what irony!- became *empereur* later, and it continued to be a mess for quite a while. Actually, it was  really a disastrous time for Europe, for quite a while.  Imagine how shocking the events in France at the end of the 18th century must have been for the elites, the aristocrats. You hear from your cousin or friends in France that everybody was kicked out of their palaces, had to flee, hide like lepers, and quite often lost not only all their influence and money, but also their life.

    Quite shocking, indeed. Revolutions come with a certain surprise element. You never know what you gonna get, until it's there and then it is usually too late. For sure there was a need for a French revolution, as the elite kind of lost their minds before losing their heads. An irrational exuberance, an unseen and unpaid for extravagance of the elites, not realizing the power of new ideas and the misery of the masses, coupled with an enormous dept, people being hungry and without jobs, the elite proving its incompetence on a daily basis and a couple of other factors. I leave the search for similarities to today's situation in some countries to my readers.

    You cannot understand today's Europe without knowing at least a bit about the French revolution. It changed the name of the game in Europe. So you see: Paris makes me think.

    Paris is different. It really is. Today's picture shows you a woman I have seen on my way to the bathroom in a Paris restaurant: I went to the bathroom  and on the wall, there was this lady. Amazing, isn't it?

    And Paris is chic. Chic and luxurious is not the same thing. Thus, contrary to the way of life of the queen and the king before the revolution, Antoni0's shop "Marie-Antoinette" comes with a certain modesty: but the little shop gleams with hard to find scented treasures. I love this place. It is so different to many of the other supper luxurious places where everything is bling bling and gold and -yes: boring.  At Marie- Antoinette you find lovely perfumes and you find a super nice guy who will not tell you what to buy but he will tell you what's behind a scent, and why you might like it. Usually, he is right when he pickes a scent for somebody. Quite an amazing talent!

    It was there at Marie-Antoinette, and we celebrated Loretta's appearance on Wednesday evening, with many perfume loving French fans and friends, and me speaking in French about the why and how of Tableau de Parfums. Aside from my troubles speaking French ( I miss the practice), it was a lovely evening and I think Loretta made a really nice first impression.

    So that was nice. And I came back to Zurich with a lot of impressions and thoughts to follow.

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