general thoughts

Items 91 to 100 of 138 total

  • columbines in bloom and launches

    Here in Zurich, we are enjoying summer temperatures and winds from the south that rush over the mountains to speed up spring in the plane. Thus, the columbines that I have in my "garden" and came without me doing anything are in full bloom. So are the tulips and the lilac and the air is filled with spring's fragrant delights.  A multitude of perfumes is in the air. One more beautiful than the other. The same is true when it comes to the so called niche perfume market.

    At least as far as multitude is concerned.  Too many launches. Entire lines or new brands starting with 10 or more fragrances. I stopped using the term niche for my fragrances a while ago, as I feel sort of disconnected the longer the more with what is usually called niche. I discussed with many friends and business partners. It is too much these days. And the niche industry is putting itself in a risky position of actually destroying its market by overwhelming/boring/exhausting its clients with pseudo conceptional fragrant niche stories.

    In a sense, we might talk of  an irrational exuberance here, heated and nourished by some, not made to last because it is unsustainable. It is like a market in bubble mode.

    I personally feel that the signs are on the wall and on some of the blogs already. To be frank: It does not bother me too much. But if you put yourself in the shoes of a perfumery then it is different. This and a few other things were on my mind when making the sketch of a columbine blooming in my garden. This time with a different app, not brushes for ipad, but sketchbook pro. Quite a nice app, too. I wish you a lovely weekend.


  • back and getting ready

    I think it is fair to say that Jovoy has become the first stop for selective niche in Paris. Finally.  And I am going there. The next city on my radar is Paris, where I will attend the official shop opening of Jovoy. My bottles already are, although you do not see them on their website, yet.

    But first things first: Fragrant greetings from Zurich, where I got back yesterday morning. It feels like a stop in between, with some time to stock up Miriam purse sprays, samples, working on orders and getting new white T-shirts packed. Lucky me, I switched to Lewis 501 and a white T-shirt a while ago, thus no worries what to pack for the next trip.

    NY was great, and we sure had a lot of fun there. We= John and me, and many others. I think John has the coolest home made, colored bottles on the market. Did you know that he actually spray colors all bottles himself, with great looking metallic car paint, that goes just wonderful what is inside the flacons (interesting scents and worth trying out, for sure!)? They look stunning and on the first sight you would not believe that they are hand made. But they are. Each one of them.


    MiN, one of the coolest selective niche perfumery, with great chairs to relax and enjoy scents, is becoming a true hot spot for niche, for sure on the East coast of the US. Saturday afternoon was all joy, and I met so many perfume lovers! All nice guys. Amazing. My thanks go to Mindy and Chat who made it all possible and to everybody who joined and came by. And, as always, I forgot to take pictures. But I did one of the drink's main ingredients: White Pike Whiskey. Great stuff, also when mixed.

    Before heading for Paris on Thursday, I need to work on some stock and on some e-mails.  And I, yes, I am still all in positive shock and smile from here to there, as I made it into Basenote's readers finalists top 5 as perfumer 2011. Which is of course totally exaggerated and I hope that Mona di Orio will be the final winner.  I really wish. But still, this is really cool. And als in the top five position landed, by the way, MiN, Luckyscent, Les Senteurs.

    You see: it was a good time in NY. To compensate a bit, I went for a few jogs in town with my phone. Here are the pictures of what I have seen there. Enjoy!







  • your support makes the difference and tuberose

    Today, I am asking you for your contribution to help us finance the production of Brian Peras's film project ONLY CHILD, featuring Grace Zabrinski, through the kickstarter campaign. But I do not ask you to just give money. No, I came up with a lot of specials and fragrant goods for you, to reward you for your support, some of them ONE TIME specials, available only now until end March. I make fragrant soaps, 30 days LIMITED perfume DARK PASSAGE, sneak previews of LORETTA and even my products available. All this without one cent profit from all these offerings.
    This is among other things how I support Brian Pera's Kickstarter campaign, and I invite you to support it, too. And not to miss the unique opportunities offered.

    Actually, it is only by our perfume loving fans that we will manage to get this movie produced. Thus, your support matters.

    It is very easy: Visit the kickstarter page, select your combination of fragrant or other goods, and then follow the process that will bring you in the end to Amazon. Only if the funding goals are reached, only then, you will be charged by amazon and get your promised goodies later. If we fail, nobody gets anything. Thus: Spread the message, please.

    You can get the  fragrance DARK PASSAGE, edp, 7 ml, in a  nice purse spray, offered only now until the end of March (29th) and then it is gone. You can combine it with a 7 ml purse spray of LORETTA, the fragrance. This is a sneak preview of the fragrance that will launch end autumn 2012. You can be the first to sniff my first fragrance where tuberose plays a major role! And you may even combine all this and more and get a fragrance from my entire line, at a discount that rocks: For a pledge of 300$ you can get 7ml purse sprays of LORETTA, DARK PASSAGE, MIRIAM, all three soaps (rose, mandarines ambrée, tuberose scented Loretta soap) and one fragrance, full bottle,  from my line, your choice. You can't beat that.


    Thus, yes. We need your contribution. And for this I made a tuberose scented soap that is just wonderful. As is the tuberose rich fragrance, Loretta, a slightly fragrance, rich, sensual. I use a lot of the "real stuff" in there: Tuberose absolute. A honey like, dark orange absolute that is unbelievable rich and voluminous. Together with rose oil, rose absolute, orange blossom absolute and many other naturals, it blends into a perfume that is one of the richest I have ever done.


    Today's picture shows you such a natural tuberose. I took the pictures in 2005 and fell in love with its natural fragrance that is overwhelming. It took me a while... but when I saw Loretta, the film, I knew that tuberose is her flower. So to say.

    You can experience why before all others. Thank you for your support.


  • compliant

    there we go...I successfully completed the PCI Data Security Standard Compliance Assessment Task.  And I am compliant. Uff.

    Basically this means that my online shop is safe and that I do not store any credit card data. Well, I cannot store them, to be precise, as all credit cards data on my online shop are not handled through me but through a super safe postfinance interface.  Be it: Tauer GmbH (that's my official company) is compliant.

    You see: An exciting morning so far. Next: Getting ready for the factory and boxing some perfumes among other things.

    And when I am done with that, back to the computer, getting shipment papers ready and maybe hopefully squeeze in a moment with my ipad painting and with some raw materials, playing. I would love to continue playing with tuberose et al. Every morning when I wash my hands with the tuberose fragrant soap called Loretta that I made to support the kickstarter campaign for Only Child, every morning I think: Today I need to continue there. The soap fragrance feels to me like a building block for a nice scent, like Mandarines ambrée, the soap, was for Orange Star. We will see. I do not want to tease you too much.

    Anyhow: I must admit... these days I am a bit tuberose lover. And every day I learn that there are many, many tuberose lovers out there. Are you?

  • complex matters

    We stay for a while in Joshua Tree: Today's picture shows you a sunset there. Yesterday, in the comment section of my blog,  Lorenzo mentioned a question and raised a discussion, referring to my post. I talked about technology changing shopping and logistics patterns. Lorenzo brought up the human factor: "When you say “where I click a button and the sample is mine, shipped within 24 hours”, nowaday, in this real world, this usually means poorly paid intensive jobs, stress, environmental consequences, etc. I feel the solution is not reverting to the good ol’ days of the shop next door, but…anyway, let’s put the human factor where it deserves to stay. Modern technology can be the key of a better world to live in, but also the source of a lot of -very old economy – pains and exploitations…"

    What I think about this is rather complex and has many facets. And has not much to do with perfumery, and yet it has a lot to do with running a perfume business and creating perfumes.

    First: My perfumes would not exist without the technological changes that we experienced the last 10 years. Without internet and changed production technology my fragrances would never have seen the world. Fragrances are a very luxurious product. In my products you find raw materials and human work from Europe, the Americas, Afrika, Australia and Asia. I try to source as much as I can from Europe, for logistics reasons, and  in order to make sure that the working conditions of the people who produce material that I need to create and assemble my scents are treated properly. This is one reason why my scents are expensive to buy.

    Second: Yes, in the real world, that we do not like to see, everybody who owns a mobile phone, a pad, a computer, a car, etc. uses natural resources that are very rare and that are produced by destroying habitats of plants, animals and human beings. The production processes of these tools that nourish further technological development involves human labor under conditions that most of us would not accept.

    Third: The use of these tools, from phone to computer to car to plane uses energy. A lot of energy. Every single facebook note uses energy. Independent of where this energy comes from, be it wind, solar, water, thermal processes, this energy comes with a price tag of natural resources being used, land being used, of natural balances being shifted. Drive from LA to Joshua Tree and see the huge wind turbines and how they destroy the beauty of a desert valley. And yes, to see it you better get a car.

    Having said this: Each of us has a choice, daily. We are free to get a phone or not. We are free to raise our voice to ask for better working conditions of our friends, family and people working for us abroad. Actually, I think it is important not to feel guilty and loaded with sin, but to take action there where we can.

    And: Ultimately, only technology will save us from the cruelties of nature and mankind. Mother nature does not care about human beings suffering. Technology allows us to create a space in a cold universe where we are warm and protected, without hunger and pain. It is up to us to make sure that we all use technology to create this cozy space.

    I use natural rose absolutes in my fragrances. Behind these absolutes are Bulgarian women picking the flowers early in the morning. There are engineers building the machinery to extract the flowers. There are truck drivers brining the rose absolute to my place. There are IT specialists allowing me to add the rose absolute to the list of ingredients in my Excel and there are Chinese workers allowing me to turn on my computer. And there are pilots flying large planes over the ocean to transport boxes with rose fragrances to Los Angeles.

  • a lovely lavender

    Today, I will continue there where I stopped yesterday: Packing some perfume. The picture to the left gives you an idea how this is done: Take the bottled fragrance, put an inlay into the metal box, put the silver cardboard paper with my signature on top before closing the box, seal it all with the large sticker,add a little lot label and put it all into the cellophane plastic bag. Do all this 24 times and then we have the storage unit of packed perfumes filled: Cardboard boxes, holding 24 units each. In theory I try to have some stock of packed fragrance. I practice I don't have much stock.

    Actually, looking at things: quite an effort, and on the side, quite an expensive effort.  Thus, in a sense, it was a welcome reminder of a couple of things when I got my order from Caldey.

    I ordered their lavender eau de toilette and got it yesterday. It is lovely, straightforward, a high quality lavender, very much praised by Luca Turin, and I wanted to get it. Smelling it was quite a strong reminder of my love for lavender. And looking at their packaging reminded me very much that at the end, at the very end, ultimately, all that matters is the juice. At least my nose works like that.

    A nice reminder.

    On the other hand, an opulent and dramatic  fragrance like Rose chyprée needs some sort of a packaging celebration. Thus, the world is complex, both sides are relevant and true.

  • after mixing is before mixing

    So I mixed Incense rosé and Miriam yesterday. Both juices are in a safe guarded place now and mature. After mixing, carrying the two aluminum bottles with me (you see how they look in today's picture), I realized that I actually carry quite a bit of money with me; my bookkeeper tells me so, too. We got the invoice for the latest raw material order, and I will need to order more in the coming weeks. Although, on a side note, I am shifting slightly my priorities: From availability of perfumes to cash flow. This means that I rather don't have a fragrance in stock than blowing up my stock and reducing my company cash. This is a lesson I learned last year: We had 100% availability all year of all fragrances. This meant that my stock was always very high and that I had a lot of money blocked in stock. This year, with a couple of investments in mind and a lot of uncertainty about the markets and how the financial crisis will be dripping down, I want to have a bit less stock.

    Anyhow. I just wanted to mention this issue on the side, showing you the  multitude of questions that even a very little business brings up.

    Thus, the last order consisted of Iso E, Okoumal, Ambroxan, irone alpha, linalool, rose absolute, cardamom oil, Clementine oil, rose oil, ylang oil, and cistus ladaniferus essential oil &extract.

    The last natural is a thrilling raw material. I mentioned it yesterday, as it is an essential part of Incense rosé. I use it since years in some of my compositions, among other things you find it in the Air du désert marocain, too. It is rather expensive, around 3000-4000 $US per kilogram. I use a quality of cistus essential oil that is standardized. It is basically the steam distilled essential oil of twigs from Cistus ladaniferus plus a bit extra added for standardization. The standardization is made by adding some of the extract that results as by product /waste in the steam distillation process. Thus, the producer adjusts each batch by adding more or less extract to make sure it smells the same, and the extract adds extra fixation power.

    The scent of this raw material: Warm and woody-spicy. Not sweet balsamic like you know it from Labdanum absolute. This essential oil is more on the wild-leathery-spicy side. Very dry and warm, if this makes sense. Actually, if all goes well I will use it later today again, together with cypriol, to test an idea I have since days in my mind but not mixed in a test bottle, yet. But first things first: The travel agency tauer continues booking flights and trains and more. So far I have booked Munich, Rome, Paris, Paris again, and Rome again.  It is going to be a busy spring, a touch too busy.


  • hello 2012, hello roses

    Welcome to 2012 and welcome to my blog in 2012. The last few days of 2011 saw us looking into the books, counting stocks and looking at numbers. I need the stock to close the books. Although I work in the industry of dreams if you so wish, creating fragrances, little fragrant dreams, at the end of the day, I need to count Francs and Euro and Dollar and see whether I can pay the bills and whether I can afford to move on. Like every year, I need to look deeply into the numbers of 2011 trying to understand what happened and coming up with an idea of where we are right now and where we might go in the first months of 2012.

    I look back to a reasonably successful year when it comes to numbers. Not fairy tale numbers, but sufficient in the moment. The outlook for 2012 is blur, however. I am convinced that we all have to get used to the idea that we are walking at the rim of a volcano that is bubbling down there and sends stinky gases up here. If we want we can actually smell them. The march along the rim brings a spectacular view, but we better be careful up there. We will see what 2012 brings in terms of economics and Euro values and trust in a banking system that seems more rotten every month. I am not very optimistic there.

    I look back to a 2011 that was the most creative year I ever had in my entire life. 2012 will demand answers where to go with this creative venture of mine and how to add more  threads into the Tauer fabric. Not an easy task. The Tauer fabric is already very dense and complex. 2012 will start with a lot of meetings and writing up of  ideas, trying to imagine how my venture might look in a year or two from now. Where I can move on, where do I need to move back and where might I need to cut? I am very much looking forward into doing so.

    And I am looking forward to sharing this process with you, my readers.

    The newspapers tend to bring rosy, happy articles with a cheerful note when looking into the new year. Thus, I want to bring a rosy note into this post, too. The picture to the left shows you a little sketch of "roses and pine needles", drawn on the ipad real quick. This afternoon, after having finished stocking up Miriam from Tableau de Parfums and Air du désert marocain, will see me playing with rose. Again.

    I hope that 2012 will see more roses from Tauer coming, painted or in little bottles.

  • perfume marketing high season

    On our way back by train from Oldenburg, where we presented us and our way of creating perfumes to a crowd of interested perfume lovers, we stopped in Hannover. I discovered a sweets vending machine, spent a few scents, entered the wrong numbers, and ended up with a Salamini Calzone, whereby SALAMINI is a registered brand name. The colors in the picture to the left match reality quite well. I have 5 more months to decide whether I want to go ahead and actually eat it. This little yellow (think bread) and red (think salami) piece of plastic is a reason to praise vegetarianism.

    And artisanal, indie salami making and hand crafted food. Real food.

    But you won't find these in a vending machine. And they don't come for 50 Euro cents a piece. The same is true for fragrances.

    Although when it comes to fragrances and their marketing, there are some differences to salami. Right now is perfume marketing high season. And based on what I see there, perfume comes with a higher erotic factor than salami. The ads: Cliché. Lips open and eyes in search of anybody to copulate immediately with , the perfect SHE reclines in a position that seems utterly uncomfortable with  a perfume flacon nearby.

    Perfume is everywhere. Too much for my gusto. Ads everywhere and little articles about scents and how to pick fragrances as gifts. The problem: Perfumes are not an optimal gift. I always say: The perfect gift is a few hours, together, in a perfumery, and the promise to pay whatever is picked as the perfect scent. Being a somewhat interested observer you wonder... The city is plastered with poster sized ads. And you wonder who is going to pay all this.

    And again, it is the same for Salamini(R) calzones: Who is going to buy the salamini calzones before they become trash?

  • not even an oligarch can get it

    Today, I finished another rose mix that will go into the molten glycerine soap, that will go into the soap pouring frame, allowing me to pour 48 soaps at once and come up with soap bars. Rose scented soap bars. The mixture is actually quite simple, consisting of 10 ingredients, rose absolute (r. damascena from Bulgaria), Bergamot essential oil and geranium (Bourbon quality) being the naturals.

    This soap like all my soaps cannot be bought. It is made to exist in the moment, as a gift and a sign of appreciation, for special moments. And -to be frank- from a commercial point of view these soaps would not make sense. Too much work  goes into the preparation of them, too much expensive raw material is inside. In a sense, these soaps are the most luxurious product I have. It is so luxurious that not even an oligarch can get it, if you know what I mean.

    Right now, I am still sitting at home, writing these lines, but as soon as they disappear in the e-universe and as soon as the paper to wrap the soaps later is printed (my printer is not keeping up with my speed) I will ride my bike to hit the little 2 room factory of mine and start melting and pouring. And thinking about Wednesday. Then I will be in Oldenburg (yes...where is Oldenburg? Think  Bremen and move a bit more to the West) and will try to make sense on the topic "Perfumery, manufacturing, composing and creative venture". Sort of. It is a Duftsalon, a getting together, scheduled for Wednesday, 19.30, with perfume lovers, organized by the Duftcontor in Oldenburg. One of the few German hotspots for selective perfumes and perfumery. Actually, I am really, really looking forward to this.

    I will for sure bring a rose absolute with me, to show to the perfume loving crowd.

    Thus, I am sitting here with my little scent strip, dipped into the rose concentrate soap mixture and I wish I had a touch more time right now. I would love, love, love so much to play a bit with it: play on the lines of a rose fragrance with this rose at is center, aldehydic, with hints of maybe tuberose in the head, a hint of muscs and woods, a trace of sandalwood maybe....



Items 91 to 100 of 138 total