Monthly Archives: September 2015

10 Item(s)

  • scribbling and waiting for Tuberose

    I love doing these little scribble sketches. They are done within minutes, you are free when doing them as the individual stroke does not matter and yet at the end, sometimes, the result is remarkable. They are perfect for moments like "now". I will soon have to run out of the house, visit the post office where I will have to queue for at least 10 minutes (felt like an eternity) as it is the end of the month. I will have to go to the factory then, fetch stuff, bring it to the little bookstore in Zurich where folks are sold out of PHI-une rose de Kandahar, 3 days after I have brought them a big pile of the rose de Kandahar, which feels like a blink, and it is all gone. And it is just amazing.

    So I scribbled 5 minutes ago and scanned it and put it online. Yep:It sort of represents the Tuberose sotto la luna flacon. The scribble image is perfect as in some places the Tuberose is still a rumor and folks could not smell it, yet. In some places, like Italy, it ships for a couple of weeks now and actually, the next days will see me packing another order of it and other things to replenish stock. What I shipped before Pitti is all gone. I just love, love, love my Italian perfume lovers.

    In the US, it will hit some of the stores early October. I am quite curious what will happen with this particular fragrance. The reason: This one is -in its family: tuberose- unique.

    So... a few days left. October will see me talking a bit, here and there, about it. Or maybe not. I have not really decided yet how pushy I want to be. In a very peculiar way I feel that there is no need to do too much talking here. A gut feeling. It is like with scribbling: Sometimes we just need to let go and wait for the picture to arise.

  • a list with 500 perfumes on basenotes

    Good morning from Zurich, where I am getting ready for a new exciting week under a perfect blue sky. Last week was less perfect and saw me more in bed than in a vertical position, but we are sort of up and running again... One of last week's highlights was: Grant Osborne's list on : "500 greatest modern perfumes", selected and listed by a couple of parameters, digged out from the basenotes database that must be enormous by now. Imagine: Basenotes is 15 years old/young. Amazing! Parameters were wardrobes, stars, positive/negative reviews.

    Grant published also a piece of statistical data here. Again: Amazement...because about 7% of all perfumes in the list are actually indie created perfumes, indies like tauer, vero profumo, Bruno Fazzolari and others. I think this is awesome.

    And also totally awesome is: Air du désert marocain landed on place 8 on this list. Nice. And Wow!

  • when less is less and more is more

    Yesterday, after shipping boxes and more boxes from the factory, and before collapsing in the bed, as I felt super sick, I did an aquarell, of myself, but I won't share it here. I look so sick there. Amazing, how somehow the subconscious guides the brushes. I will go somewhat quiet for the next 2 days to get up and running again. But this I want to share with you:

    The picture to the left is a detail. Here's the full picture:

    I did it last weekend, on a large paper (50x70 cm), using a super big brush, aquarelle, with brave lines, without correcting anything, within 15 minutes. I love it in all its imperfections. I did this picture after having "finished" another aquarelle, in the same format, but this one took me forever, for sure 10 hours, with endless corrections and fine tunings. And,..., well, with the result that I do not feel happy with it.

    A friend of mine, painter, told me the other day "you must start painting with the clock set. 15 minutes must be sufficient. Stop after 15 minutes! If it's good it will be done in 15 minutes. If not, you can't make it better anymore!" I yet have to try it, and do not fully agree. In my acrylic painting class, I am learning these days to work on a motive for days... But still: There is some truth to it.

    I have a lot of perfume trial vials sitting right next to me right now, or my mouse on the desk. Many of them are "15 minutes" oeuvres. Because I learned this rule in perfumery earlier. Often, less is more. The "Dark Mysterious Woods" (running title in Excel, part of the Unreleased series by Tigerlily) was one of them. And this morning, I woke up with the perfect idea for another body and room/linen scent (to be mixed over the weekend) that might be exactly that: A 15 minutes scent.

    But it is not always like that. Sometimes more IS more. The tuberose sotto la luna, that we will start selling here and in the US Oct. 1 and that goes into the stores in Europe right now (with quite a hello!) is a scent where I worked by "more is more". More trials...Overall (I just counted in my Excel) it was 27 major trials and some trials that I stopped mixing on the go.

    Why so many trials there and so little for other scents? I guess it depends on what you want to reach. Maybe it is just luck, too. A happy moment that can't be planned nor be repeated.



  • and we see that we don't see much

    Again, a super small picture that does not really tells much: This time a panoramic view of parts of the "factory. And we sort of see that we do not see a lot.

    I get this question a lot, usually with a "I know it might be too much" : " I would love to get a tour and and in depth insight and and and.. in your factory."

    And yes, this is way too much. The other day, I had a guy calling, wishing to visit the company address that is public. "This part of the company is the office in my house", I told him. "No visits, no shop, no factory, no nothing. Please apologize." And yeah: 30 minutes later he tried his luck.

    You know, that's one of the funny discrepancies, coming back to my last post about many things, including bloggers. When you run a company like me, you  need to undress and stand completely naked in the internet: Address, telephone, commercial registry numbers, etc. allowing others to check pretty much everything.

    Some bloggers and writers do not even have a real name published. Others hide behind books on facebook, not disclosing for whom they are working and where their dollars come from. Others have multiple identities and hence, you have no idea who's talking.

    Take home message: On the internet you sometimes do not know.

    Does it matter? Not really, but it does if you are getting stalked or followed by somebody who does not feel limits or if you get on the radar of bullies.

    It happened to me a couple of times. I learned my lessons.

    So... here's a panoramic picture from the factory, totally small. But I tried to upload the larger version. You should be able to see it following this link.

    And what do we see: Not much. Well, there is quite some stock of TUB and 02. (Actually, there's also PHI, but you do not see it here) And it is densely packed, the room, with boxes and more. This is normal. It is September.

  • here's a little picture

    well, today's picture is actually too small. I cannot upload a larger version here, but there's one on my facebook site if you care to see it all. It is a panoramic view, taken with my ipad. I learned about this panorama function at the stand. I did not know how simple it is to get this 360 degree pictures done with a pad. And when in the factory, today, I want to do the same thing in the factory. Let's see how that will turn out.

    The panorama photo was taken early in the morning, before the visitors arrived. And trust me: We had so many visitors during the 3 days that often it was impossible to talk to all of them. Which is a pit(t)y. The Pitti is open, one day, for the public hence you have Mr. and Ms. Smith coming by with dogs and children and it often feels like being in a park in the afternoon where everybody is strolling around. The only difference: The air is soaked with a thousand perfumes.

    Two days, the fair is sort of reserved for the buyers, distributors from the world, but mostly retailers from Italy and some few from other countries. The French are -like every year- missing. I feel that the French have not realized yet that perfumes are made outside of France, too. The distributors often come from the eastern parts of Europe and they want to make you rich. That's what one guy told me, not this year, but the line would not amaze me. It fits. "I will make you rich". -"Oh, wow. nice!", I go.

    "yes, but you need to give me a coefficient of 8", he said (that means the retail price divided by 8 is your selling price)

    "oh, ... no, not really". And then that's the end.

    Quite often, to be honest, perfumes are not smelled, or not until the end. For some, the coefficient is the key. The perfumes are secondary. This helps me a lot to distinguish and who's not starting by smelling my creations is usually out of discussion for me.

    And then, there is the press, the bloggers, coming to the stands. There again, there are differences. Some are passionate and smell their noses off.  Some are just trying to collect as many selfies as they can get and hence have no time to smell. But I had some great first encounters with bloggers and vloggers and look forward to talking them in the future. The world of blogging has changed, and in a good way it got more professional. In a bad way, sometimes, too.

    Thus, I learned from a fellow perfumer that he was handed out a price list for coverage by a blog, together with the request for free full bottles.

    So there you go: It is an interesting world, this perfumery (business) world. After 3 days in Florence, at Pitti, I am always looking forward to doing the real thing which is bottle packing and getting shipments ready. Real perfume work is ZEN.

  • clean and powdery

    uiuiui... we are still in post Pitti blast mode here, and in PHI - une rose de Kandahar bringing back mode which means packaging and packing and packing to get the shipments out to the stores that reordered the rose de Kandahar months ago. The good news is: The biggest order of these with delivery in September, traveling south, over the Alps, towards Italy, will be packed today and will start moving next week and then... then we should all be able to go in a somewhat slower mode.

    The picture of today: I picked it because I realized at Pitti again how much Noontide Petals is loved in Italy (and some other places) and how much this scent is under the radar in the US. I have no clue why this is. Is it cultural differences? Or is it that in the US there are just very few stores for selective perfumery? I am not talking about malls and alikes. No, I am talking about nice stores with a great selection. In Italy, there are many. Like: Really many. Like in every city. In the US, there are very few.

    Maybe it is conditioning (towards certain scents)? In the sense of: If you stick your nose too often and for too long into malls, you get used to whatever you get there.

    Maybe it is the name?

    I do not know, but I find this very fascinating how different scents work differently in different regions. And you know what? I learned at Pitti that the BIG trend in the Saudi market these days is/is going to be is..... CLEAN and POWDERY. Nope. Not the dirty, stinky, old smokey socks oud thing. Although, to tell you the truth, the oud fragrances that we get these days have little to do with the "real thing". The real thing is hardly wearable, at least for westerners. Anyhow. What I heard at Pitti: The hip thing among the hip Saudi perfume lovers is clean and powdery. So there you go. And I heard a lot of other things, some gossip, some hard facts, numbers; and I together with many insiders I go like "Oh my ...this is going to be the perfect storm". That's why I answered one journalist's question about what I do with tauer as a brand for the future with the line: "I get my ship ready for the storm that is imminent".

    Thus, while taking down the sails and closing the portholes, I am trying to make sense of it all. Clean and powdery. Well.

  • back to my bottles and flowers

    Yeah....I am home! Back to my fragrant bottles. And flowers (the card to the left is actually going to be a birthday card). And computer where I try to keep up with things post Pitti.

    Yes, you guessed it right: Pretty busy here. But you know what? The fair was great and I actually got it paid already by the orders that I collected there. After 3 days of glamour and stardom, well... back to work and doing the blue collar jobs.

  • Pitti 2015 ahead

    Good morning from Zurich, almost on my way to Florence. A wonderful city that I have actually never visited, for real I mean, with sightseeing and so... Every time that I was there in the last couple of years I was way too busy spraying and talking perfume. This year will not be different. Pitti 2015 will see me presenting the tauerville line in Italy and the next scent in my Sotto la luna collection. Tuberose sotto la luna.

    What's it like? Just.... wonderful. Green spicy floral head notes, creamy tuberose, ylang ylang, jasmine and a dash of roses in its heart and a dark rich base featuring tuberose, patchouli and dark ambergris.

    So there you go: I am already in perfume talking mode.

    I will be back late Monday next week and cannot wait talking about what it was like.


  • work in progress

    Yesterday, on the way home from long weekend in the Swiss countryside, the conversation in the car went like

    (me) "you know, in a way, it feels right not to work too hard today!"

    (driver) "how come?"

    (me) " well, it's Labor Day"

    (driver) "where's that?"

    (me) " well, Labor Day's happening in the US"

    (driver) "I do not get it. We don't really live in the US".

    (me) "well, you know, I'm a global player these days and have my US company tauer perfume llc, and hence, I am sort of entitled to celebrate Labor Day. Ha!"

    (driver) " I don't get it. You're crazy"

    OK. Bottomline, I guess, is: I sort of took a day off on Labor Day to take a deep breath before heading for Pitti (Thursday) and before stepping into autumn (nowish) and before launching my newest baby, and getting ready for my early year (2016) and spring orders.

    yes. I am now thinking about spring. Because, what's planned for autumn, is either there or not. Mostly it is there (uff) and there is not much that can go wrong now. But although my thoughts are already spinning around March 2016, because some things really need a lot of time,  I am like everybody else. I can feel the days becoming shorter, temperatures going down, the light changing and with all this comes an introspection and a hint of a cozy mood. Like moving into house again, suddenly enjoying warm and darker colors, reaching for the snuggly blanket and looking forward to hugging the fleece. That's why I picked today's picture. It is work in progress, warm colors, with a somewhat introspective motive or mood. I have painting class today and will continue working on it: the eye and the hair needs some work. And yes: The picture of today is a very quick shot, and does not reflect the colors properly.

    I am reaching out for patchouli and amber and leather these days. These notes fit perfectly. And you?

  • lot 001

    Good morning from Zurich. Phew! That was quite a week! Tauerville's Incense flash went online and kept me busy for a while.

    And for Tauer Perfumes I am trying to get ready for Pitti . Pitti begins in a week from now, and it will be heaven on perfume earth and a little bit of hell, too. Hell, just because Pitti translates into standing there for 3 days and this is tough. But Hey! No pain, no gain!

    Today, when drinking my morning coffee outside, inhaling autumn air, humid, still warm, but not hot anymore, today, I remembered that it is around 10 years now that air du désert marocain went into the first bottles. So there you go: I picked the lot 001 bottle that sits in my bathroom and took a quick picture.

    There you see a couple of things. First, it is kind of an ugly flacon, with a label that is printed on a printed by myself and cut out by hand. Quite simple. There is a picture on the flacon, symbolizing the moon rising over the desert, again: made by myself.

    The fragrance got a bit darker, and it smells a bit warmer, rounder, softer, maybe a bit more powdery due to maturation. But, it still smells incredibly good.

    Air du désert marocain has become a classic, and, in a certain way, I think this is just the beginning of the road. It will probably survive me.

    Time to be grateful, for a moment, before continuing the marathon.

10 Item(s)