Monthly Archives: September 2014

Items 1 to 10 of 11 total

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  • ROSE flash

    I just clicked the "send" button for the newsletter. It is out now, no way back.

    There it says: " ROSE flash is the most luxurious rose that I have created so far. It is special in many ways. I look at it as a little gift from tauerville; a perfume for my rose loving friends. A stunning rose, rich, oriental, gourmand.

    I want ROSE flash to be experienced as a complete scent and not picked apart into individual notes and analyzed down to its bones. Hence, I do not want to provide notes.

    This rose is here to share the joy and fun I had in my lab exploring rose petals."

    Product details:
    ROSE flash comes in perfume concentration (20%), in a 10 ml roll-on format, without extra packaging.Samples: The ROSE flash is not part of the Tauer sampling program.Shipment is to the US and Switzerland only for logistics reasons. Availability: only
    Retail price: 30 Swiss Francs, 32 $US
    Although Rose flash is not a limited edition, availability and sales are  limited. Tauer does not guarantee that the flash series of products will always be available.
    ROSE flash is the first fragrance from a series of flash scents.

    More details here.

    So there we go...

  • Sunday musings and noisy mails

    There are moments in our lives where things change, from one moment to the other. Yesterday was such a moment. I was sitting on the balcony, under the most bright September sun imaginable, painting a still live of red wine leaves  and rose hips, picked in the garden the day before, when I got a mail. Today's blog picture shows you the result no. 2. The first one was too bright. The second one worked out better, also because I used a larger brush and knew the motif better. Get to know your motif! The same is true for perfumes, by the way. Every rose that I do, sort of, gets easier and I can draw the lines without having to look too closely. Instead, I am can work more on the picture's/perfume's composition, the tone, the dynamic.

    For reasons that are unclear to me I get a lot of spam mails since  a couple of weeks. On the ipad they get through; the outlook on the PC is configured to make them disappear. Almost all of them.

    But first things first. I had done what needed to be done this Sunday; I had cleaned desk no. 2, making room in order to prepare the pictures for the upcoming newsletter; I got all pictures ready by now, still undecided when to send the newsletter, with what kind of text, though. The text is a bit tricky this time as I need to say that I have a goodie that are US and Switzerland only, for the time being, for logistics reasons, and because it is easier for me to ship to the US than to xyz (pick your favorite EU country here). When I am done with this post here, I need to continue there, on mailchimp, my newsletter online tool. I could filter for US only newsletter recipients, but won't do so. Sometimes, I feel that talking about perfumes with words is more difficult than creating them.

    I also did my Sunday jog, 101 minutes which is very good, makes me super proud but which is also completely irrelevant here, my regular round in the woods and hills around Zurich. Thinking about many things, like Pitti, the fragrance show in Florence, and who was visiting and who didn't and for what reasons. I talked to many, many perfumers there. It is THE place where we niche in a niche in a niche perfumers meet. One discussion was particularly remarkable. We both agreed that things are changing, and that everybody seems to get tired, and that it is time to change. And maybe do a niche in a niche in a niche fair/show/exhibit/meeting place. Where it is us and not the others. While jogging, the world is simple and everything makes sense.

    I also the orders that came in over the weekend. Thank you to all who ordered from my site! Thank you. Your orders make all the difference. They really do, from a money point of view: We get the margin, the whole margin. And from a psychological point of view. Orders make me happy because... well, because I often think that someone over there, for instance in Colorado, spends 33$US to discover fragrances, shipped from Switzerland, flying over the ocean, and the guy who orders has maybe worked for an hour in order to be able to spend his/her $$$. That makes me grateful. And then, I feel that the whole process is a little miracle. Technology that feels like magic. It really does.

    And then, orders make me happy because the order confirmation mail that I get is a welcome change to the daily email noise; free samples here, production advice there (no, no advice given). But some noisy mails make a difference. Like yesterday. I was offered "affordable burial services". Wow. Is it time already?

    And now, what's next? I need to get the newsletter out. Planting another tree. Subito.

  • inventing roses

    or "re-inventing" roses. Today's picture to the left shows you a rough sketch that I did a while ago, in search of ideas. A quick, flashy sketch. In reality, it is only 15x20 cm, watercolor on paper, using a thick brush.

    But it looks almost like a graphiti. On a pale blue wall. There is something fragile in there, a transient element. And a code-like element. The rose being reduced to a code consisting of flower petals in semi-3D. I will use this picture one fine day. It has a special quality and I almost always fiddle around with roses...

    I just love my roses, and when it comes to perfumes, I love them even more.

    At Pitti in Florence, I was asked by a perfume lover about the size of my palette. I mentioned that it is smaller than the average palette in this industry. Maybe I am using more naturals, though. Anyhow: I was then asked whether it is possible to create something new with a palette that is limited and does not contain -for instance- cashmeran. (one of the many molecules that you find in many scents, these days even in notes descriptions for perfumes)

    "This is the best starting point!", I said. "you can re-invent roses every day. There is no limit really."

    There you go: The universe is enormous, but it's building blocks are very few; some 118 elements. I know... this is kind of a simplification.

    But still: there is plenty of room out there.



  • rose concrète and feeling fabulous

    Today's picture shows you a metal drum with rose concrète, 5oo gr, fresh from the fridge, hence the condensing water droplets on the outside. I store it in my fridge and before using it it has to come to room temperature. I do not use it for perfumes, really. It is too waxy. About 50% of its content is waxy matter that does not dissolve in ethanol and filtering it off from an ethanolic solution is really tricky. Hence, I use rose absolute: This is made by ethanol extraction of the concrète. The concrète is made by solvent (hexane for instance) extraction of rose petals.

    Its scent? Right from the box you can smell a distinct solvent scent. You need to put some on paper to get the real quality of this reddish-orange wax. Heavenly. Much closer to rose than the absolute.

    What did I do with it: I used it together with Jasmine absolute in my "majestic TUBEROSE" perfume in a soap that it is not available for sales (yet), but that will go to a shop soon, here in Switzerland. A story developing so to say....not mine, though. I am just supporting with... soaps!

    So you see: I love this material, peeling some of this fragrant rose wax out with a spoon feels magically. Rose concrète makes you feel fabulous!

    What also makes me feel fabulous: being out there, up there, without most of the noise of every day. I was up there, pretty much without any noise for three days. I just sooooooooo needed it.

    20140925l sunset view from Alp Grüm

    After Pitti, I was super busy, needed to get stuff out, and decided that I needed a break. Now, these days, in order to get  a break, I have to do the groundwork before: weekend shift. And little time to post here. Sorry.

    Anyhow: I wanted this short break, and now, after it, it feels like a having taken a deep breath. Taking a deep breath is a good idea before starting another exciting venture. Next week will be exciting. Stay tuned!

  • magic realism

    Today's picture shows you my part of the stand at Pitti Fragranze, 5 minutes after 6 pm, Sunday September 14. It is empty as we started packing things after the fair was over. It is always amazing how this glitter world of Pitti falls apart within minutes when it is all over. All the golden flacons disappear. The high heels click clack towards the exit. What is left is the scent of a thousand perfumes, lingering in the air. The aftermath of Pitti is always, well: Troubling. After 3 days of living in a perfume bubble, talking, spraying, more talking, hugging, 3 days of taking pictures, of discussing notes and retail business, distribution factors, packaging, labels, after 3 days of living in the twilight between art and business, it is all gone within a couple of minutes.

    All perfumers leave, friends, clients, hug buddies, all gone. It is a moment of relief, as it is a bubble and the conscious self knows that it can't go on forever like that. It is a moment of sadness, too. A little abyss. It doesn't last for long as there is work before Pitti, work during Pitti and the work-up after Pitti. There we are right now: Following up on the contacts. Trying to cluster what I have seen and experienced. Trying to remember what was said.

    "Magic realism", that's what a client said when she smelled the Gardenia sotto la luna.

    How cool is that? Perfect! I wish I'd come up with that. Magic realism is perfect. Shortly after the client left, I was talking to a befriended perfumer who visited. He brought it to the point: The problem with Gardenia in perfumery is the gardenia that sits on the shelves.

    After Pitti is before Pitti. This perfumery year is (almost) over. Almost, as there is PHI-une rose de Kandahar, hopefully making another appearance in November. The only puzzle piece left there is the green flacon that should march into the factory end September; we hope so at least. Almost, as the work for Gardenia has just started. And for a few other things. We will see.

    Today, I got up at 4 (am), to finish entering the soap "plush GARDENIA" winners into the shipment system of shipwire, my US e-commerce fulfillment service provider. The happy winners (20 of them) will soon find a little soap bar in their letter boxes. And yes: this soap is not for sales. Sorry. And I did not do an European draw: It was US only.

    Why? Because I have the logistics and shipment infrastructure in the US that allow me to do so. I do not have alike in the EU. My company (Tauer Perfumes LLC), incorporated in the US, my warehouse: All not that easy in Europe, if you are not living in an EU country. Why is this?, you might ask. Well, I guess, one answer might be: What I did within 24 hours in the US, online, getting a company up and running, would take quite a while in many EU countries.

    And, although we always talk about the "united" market of the EU, with the same rules everywhere: it does not exist really. Sending perfumes to Lithuania is different then sending them to Italy, and different compared to the Netherland or the UK. Different rules, different papers needed: You name it.

    But still: It is somewhere up there, in my mind, to also build an EU Tauer logistics infrastructure. Why? Because I see the signs on the wall.


  • talking with hands

    Greetings from Zurich! Back from Florence. Uff. A pile of work is waiting here and hence, this post is a micro post. Just that much:
    We are all very happy here. Gardenia sotto la luna found its fans.

    I talked a lot.

    I got a little TV feature in the Italian TV.

    Here's the link....

    And watching it feels strange to me and I realized: I do a lot with my hands there. Ah well. Thus, I could not help but scribbling the picture of today.... more soon again, on this channel.

  • out of town

    today, hurray! finally and uff! and all: I will fly to London, for tomorrow's launch event at Les Senteurs in the heart of London, surrounded by the best what selective perfumery has to offer. The launch date is going to see a full moon - and a super full moon-  and it is about as perfect as it can get for Gardenia sotto la luna. I am really looking forward to this.

    It feels great to finally show this fragrance and to present it to perfume lovers and learn what they come up with and have to say. Perfume is very subjective. Totally subjective, really. I mean: I have no clue what you are smelling and the other way round. Of course, we can meet on ground that is safe and sound when discussing and experiencing perfume. For instance like: is it original, or is it like this or that? So I am looking forward to this event in London. Back in Zurich, I basically just sleep for a night, repack my bag, and move on, towards Florence.

    A couple of busy days ahead and I am not sure how often I will talk to you, here on the blog. Sorry. But while I am away: there's some reading for you.

    Here's the link to Persolaise's review of the Gardenia sotto la luna. Enjoy!

  • classification of flowers and woods

    This morning, pretty early, outside dark as we are moving into autumn, inside bright thanks to electricity, I was thinking about the blog post of today. Referring to yesterday's interview part II on the Persolaise blog, and a quick illustration that I did while trying to come up with an answer to a particular question; "If flowers could be placed on some sort of spectrum according to their smell (you decide how this spectrum should be defined: maybe lily of the valley at one end and tuberose at the other) where would you place gardenia and why?"

    It is an interesting question, that I tried to answer doing this sketch that you find on the Persolaise site.

    So I was drinking my first morning coffee, reading the news that are not very new these days, people against people, and I was thinking that I might talk about human nature and how we love and need to classify things, and people. I am no exception there. I like to think in simple terms. It helps. Sometimes.

    Early in the morning, the mind wanders more readily, and hence I started thinking about how one could try to put all sorts of perfumery raw material into some sort of wheels, classifying them. Like woods or woody notes. I made a little ink sketch of how one could look at woods then. Oudhy does not exist as term, but I think you know what I mean. And now I wonder whether I missed a couple of categories to classify. Ambery could be added as parameter. Earthy might be another one. But then: In order to make sure that classifications help explaining the complex world with simple terms, the number of terms must be limited. You can't really make a category for everything that is out there.

    It is a mind game. Patchouli, for instance, is somewhere in the middle between powdery, incense and oudh. Sandalwood is all the way up there, floral. Cedarwood (Texan) is close to the middle, with a bit towards the incense side. Cypriol is close to oudh with a mark saying "leathery, earthy, cistus is somewhere in the middle , too: Oudh, incense, dry wood.

    As I said: This is not reality, it is a mind game, that might help to understand the world. When writing these very lines, I was thinking, that actually, a nice woody oudh base should not touch the powdery side of woods, and if then only to add a little twist, but the main notes should come from the right side of today's illustration. So you see: Simplification helps. It 's like "good wood, bad wood ". And no: I have no plans to make an oudh.

    The illustration of today, by the way, was done with ink, Indian ink, and a nice ink brush that I got the other day. Drawing sketches with ink is inspiring. Reducing complexity, there we go...



  • rabbits under the moon and flowers

    In my chat with Persolaise, for his blog, asked about "sotto la luna", I said: "....the first time I heard "sotto la luna" was many years ago, and since then it has stood for a lot. There is a poem by an Italian author, Giuseppe Barberis, called Danze Di Conigli Sotto La Luna (Dancing Rabbits Under The Moon). For a couple of reasons, the image of dancing rabbits under the moon is very inspiring to me. It is a melancholic, happy, soothing, saddening and enlightening picture."

    You can read the full first part of three (yes, we had fun talking...) here on Persolaise's blog.

    When I said so, I did not really think a lot about the image of rabbits dancing and what this picture might bring up in readers and how it may even change the perception of the fragrance, Gardenia.  It was an honest answer to a question about the why and how of "sotto la luna", and going back many years in my life, it was just there, the image of rabbits dancing under the moon. I guess I have - in the last few years- added another picture: The white flower blooming under the moon.

    Today's picture: Really fast done this morning, specifically for this post, an aquarelle of a happy rabbit in the grass. A contract work for my blog...

    Pictures, pictures, pictures. And perfumes. It is always utterly fascinating how they go together, supportive, distractive, positioning, guiding the way. It is actually one of the delights of Pitti Fragrance, the upcoming niche perfume show in Florence, to see all the many pictures that are used to communicate the fragrances. Often, these pictures say also a lot about the man and woman behind the scent, their esthetics, how they imagine the fragrance. Last year, there was everything: Still lifes, flowers, people, skin, architecture, pop art, renaissance, loud colors, soft whispers, white and black, big and small, mystic landscapes and macro flowers, and more.

    But there will be no rabbits pictures, at the stand where you find me ; I will be standing at the KAON stand, built and managed by my Italian distributor, and with me there will be perfumer friends standing , too. There will be Gardenia flowers, at least on the flacon label. I do not know whether you realized it, but since years it is the first flower appearing on a flacon (again). Below is a cut-out of the label on the flacon: It was designed by my designer guru who helps me with the design of everything and who guides me. Every perfume in the sotto la luna line will have a flower on the label. THE flower. We actually already designed the hyacinth and the tuberose. (I love the tuberose design).

    And trust me: It really, really took me a while to convince my design guru to put flowers on there. Flowers are tricky. It's easy, very easy to drift into cheesy pinkish territory. Or into " too feminine territory", which sounds harsh but I did not find the right words right now: Gardenia, in my nose, goes well with men's skin, and therefore I do not want to go too pink, if you know what I mean. But I wanted to see flowers on my flacons. In the end, we (or better: He, the guru) came up with the strong geometric pattern, sharp lines, that balance the lively flower.

    I guess, my design guru is just happy that I don't insist on rabbits. For the moment. Have a great day!

    Gardenia sotto la luna label Gardenia sotto la luna label

  • Jumping

    Today's picture shows you an (unfinished, maybe) watercolor painting that I did last week outside, a little path in the botanical garden. It is unfinished, maybe, as I actually should/wanted to add some shadows and a bit of color to the path that is a half circle in the middle of the picture. But I was scared of destroying it all by making a mistake. When I told this to my teacher, he simply said: OK, do it again! And when you reached the point where you are now, you can try your ideas on your second picture.

    That's what I did, but am still undecided about adding another line more.

    So you see: Here's the allegory. The more you have reached, the more you might get scared of losing it all.

    This is true for all sorts of things. And it is a trap. From time to time, I try to remember this. Thus, from time to time, I am trying to jump out of the box, to look into the mirror and tell myself: It is time for another game. Do something "crazy", maybe, dare painting this extra line that might change it all. Gardenia sotto la luna isn't this jump. Although, when you smell the fragrance, you might realize that it speaks a slightly different language compared to my other creations. I think -as a creator- I moved forward there. In my upcoming exclusive interview with Persolaise, a discussion really, of many facets, the why's and how's and what if's, you might find out more, soon. Persolaise announced this three-part interview yesterday, and it will probably go live very soon. Three parts as we talked and talked and talked, and just could not stop. I am  very much looking forward to it.

    Gardenia, however, is not me jumping out of the box.

    Jumping out of the box means something different. Like: Opening up a niche store in Swaziland. Or make buyers become sellers. Stuff like that. Or using a social media sales approach, where you get a product and pay indirectly, by giving away your data, your interests, your network. But how this would translate into the material world of perfume, this I do not know.

    You know: I a marketplace where Tom Ford has become the synonym for niche, one has to move on forward, and dare painting this extra line.


Items 1 to 10 of 11 total

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