Monthly Archives: August 2012

Items 11 to 13 of 13 total

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  • another picture and my logistics based country rating

    Here is another picture taken during my holiday, with my i-phone, as I did not want to carry my Nikon with me all the time and as I did not want to transport the camera on my bike. I took it in the one and only church that we visited and had a look at from the inside: The Good Shepherd cathedral in San Sebastian. It is not an old church, but yet looks more "gothic" than many old gothic church that was treated with a baroque decoration program.

    I like the picture for the lights effects (again). It is not really important what goddess or person is in the back (it is Maria holding baby Jesus). There are colored light reflections on the floor, coming from the colored glass windows. There is a thin line of light around the column to the left and there is the yellow light around the mother holding her baby. It is as if the colors on the floor, the lively pattern, the light  sparkles, emanate from the statue.

    Of course, they don't. But it looks like.

    So, what's up in tauerville today besides looking sentimentally at pictures that I took in my vacation? For one I need to pack air du désert marocain and prepare orders for retailers. This means besides putting the air du désert marocain into metal boxes, and then in cardboard boxes and all in another cardboard box: Making shipment and customs papers and prepare the invoices for later payment. I am still using an excel file for the invoices. The shipment papers are done online: Super fast and efficient. Getting the papers done properly: The first step in a series of many steps in perfume logistics.

    Talking logistics: I personally have my own, very personal rating of countries and regions. It is based on what experience we make when shipping things. The US have a high rating, like triple A, on my private rating. Shipment with customs in between and everything around it works. Effectively and fair.

    Germany gets something like a A-B rating as sometimes the German customs goes havoc and demands commercial invoices for single samples. Yes, they do. The commercial invoice is a one page document with some information such as custom tariff numbers, country of origin, an official statement declaring values etc., and a person needs to sign it. This is the reason why we mostly ship orders to Germany with a commercial invoice.

    Italy gets a BB minus rating with negative outlook as the postal service as well as customs is on one hand dysfunctional and the other hand totally out of control. A 7 ml purse spray of a fragrance for instance might have 2 months from Switzerland to Italy, gets a "sanitary inspection" in between by some institution within Italy (paid for by the recipient) and will be delivered only if you are lucky. Imagine you have a company located in Italy, and need to wait 2 months for a sample. Shipment with courier does not really help either.

    This is one of the reasons why we do not ship to Italy. And this why I was looking for a distribution partner within Italy. Shipment with a truck and through a distributor works fine.

    There are funny results in my personal logistics rating, too. We shipped to Adis Ababa, repetitively, without troubles, with a few days delivery times: Triple A for Ethiopia?

  • on light and shapes

    Today's picture on the left of this blog entry shows you a black and white picture, taken in Luarca (Luarca on wikipedia), in the evening, while drinking and snaking something high caloric after a long cycling day. Luarca is one of many, many beautiful little villages and cities at the Atlantic coast in Spain, often hidden in a bay, surrounded by steep hills.

    I like this picture with the sun mirrored in the sea, the city houses almost reduced to a contour line, the horizontal and the vertical lines, and the boats that sort of point to the mirror sun. I learned that when painting an object or a scenery, one can do so by looking at patterns. Actually, one should do so. Searching for parallel lines, for patterns, for contrasts and shifts in light, for shapes. But when you try to paint something that you see, for instance a dog, you should not try to paint the dog, but you should try to paint the shapes, the contrasting light patterns, the lines. The result will be the dog, painted. If you try to paint the dog, you might end up with a wrong picture that your brain tells you: A short cut, a code for a dog. Or a flower or anything else. Our brain thinks and sees in code. And the best way to start painting , I think, is to get around the code and just focus on lines and shapes, light and later colors.

    But the first thing, I think, you have to do, is see and try to find out what you actually see.

    Anyhow (oups!), I am drifting a bit here. Actually, I wanted to use the picture of today, as an illustration and starting point for aldehydes. I love aldehydes. For me they are one the reasons why I love to use synthetics beyond naturals, or together with naturals. I once said, repetitively: Using synthetics (or rather: Molecules) in a mixture is like turning on the light.

    Aldehydes are bright lights. My favorite aldehydes are C12 MNA (think woody, amber, waxy, metallic, bright and intense), and C10, decenal 4 trans that is very citrus, sharp, and super flashy bright.  These are very "standard" aldehydes that I use quite often in low quantities usually. There are others, like C14 (super peach) or phenylpropanal that is a green aldehyde, reminiscent of hyacinth, very sharp, silvery floral.

    I use this aldehyde in Loretta, the upcoming second fragrance from the Tableau de Parfums series. I use it, not because I want a hyacinth note, but I use it to provide lift to a floral heart, to turn on the light in a fragrance heart that would be too dark and damp with the tuberose absolute, the rose absolute, and the orange blossom absolute and some woods that might render the scent a bit too dense and dark. Adding a bit of phenylpropanol lifts, brings out the flowers and adds a twist. It is like drawing a bright spot with halos.

    Now, do not get me wrong: Loretta is no aldehydic fragrance, like Miriam is. There, in Miriam, aldehydes play a central part. In Loretta, they are just sparkles, in a larger picture that is a rich oriental floral.

  • back home

    yes. I am back home. Today's picture shows you the TGV train we took from Hendaye back to Paris and from there to Zurich. After a couple of strenuous days on the bike along the Atlantic coast in Spain it felt great taking the train and just sit and getting transported across Europe. The coast in this corner of the world (costa verde) is pretty hilly and the trip was quite tough. At least the first week.

    The last two weeks saw me mostly smelling the scent of the sea and the interface between sea and land, with its thick, slightly rotten, salty, moldy and warm, rich green and watery notes, and the camphor notes of uncounted eucalyptus trees, and pines, and the fresh cut green and dried hay in the hills, and yummy scents of morning croissants and evening plates. Nice!

    It was pretty rare that I wore perfume the last two weeks. It does not really make sense when cycling, I think. If I did, it was the fragrance that has the running title "aldehydic rose". With its splendid sparkling notes (and a rich sandalwood base among other notes) it was perfect. And lasting forever it seemed. I enjoyed it a lot and am looking forward to sharing it in 2013. Right now, I am still getting the last two weeks out of my way, cleaning and organizing my e-mails. Next week will see me stocking up, and traveling to Helsinki, for a small but fine scent gathering. And then we start working on 2013, on Pitti Fragranze and whatever comes along.
    Cheers from Zurich again!

Items 11 to 13 of 13 total

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