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Monthly Archives: August 2012

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  • summer's end

    Here, in Zurich, we have sort of reached the end of the summer. The weather shifted from hot and humid to cool and very humid: It is grey and rains.

    Thus, no miracle that I was sniffing a cologne trial I made a long time ago. I called it Cologne au vetiver. It is an all natural cologne that features some vetiver in the base (together with a few other woods). And now, after having discovered the best Neroli essential oil (orange blossom essential oil) produced in Morocco: I really, really feel like continue working on this cologne. I would love to enrich the base a bit. A  little bit more woods, in order to make it last a bit longer. You know: Eau de Colognes are really fleeting by nature. At least they used to be. These days, there are colognes on the market that have a sticking power that competes with nuclear waste. Sort of.

    Anyhow, I will play a little bit there, with my vetiver cologne, using Bourbon vetiver that is less smoky and leathery, but more woody. And I pump the cologne up and add a twist here and there with carrot seeds essential oil (think woody iris notes), coriander seeds oil (think woody airy notes, adding coriander seeds is like adding linalool, as it is so rich in linalool), rosemary essential oil (adding a campherous twist) and lavender complementing the citrus notes: Lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, litsea, petitgrain, neroli. And then we have the flower notes supporting fraction, like orange blossom absolute and geranium essential oil.

    And right now , I am considering to add a bit of a rose absolute, too.

    And once mixed: I need to come up with a dilution that is maybe a bit lower, thus strengthening the scent and then we see.

    I wish you a nice weekend. Mine will be citrus loaded.

     

  • https

    uff. That was quite an exercise and a good example for how simple things turn out more complicated than initially thought. At least thought by Andy Tauer. My IT supporting partner was more careful and advised me to expect some troubles and hidden fallouts and -downs.

    Anyhow. We managed to finally switch to a SSL (Secure Socket Layer, has nothing to do with socks, though) site. Hence, tauerperfumes.com is now found at https://www.tauerperfumes.com. Most of the features should be fine now, but from time to time a little bug might pop up. We will see.If you find one, please let me know.

    The good news: All your information entered on the tauer perfumes website website, such as names and phone numbers, address and e-mail is entered in a secured place. Ha!On the other hand, the credit card interface always was and still is secured by Postfinance, by the way. About the safest payment interface in Switzerland.

    Time to celebrate! I think I go to the gym..

     

  • Loretta launch event in Los Angeles

    I figured, it is time to make an announcement for the Loretta launch event in Los Angeles at the Scentbar of Luckyscent.

    Mark your calender and please come by and stop for a drink and a whiff of the newest release from Tableau de Parfums.

    I hope you will be equally excited as we are.

    ============

    October 19, Friday, afternoon after 4 pm, Scentbar at 7405 Beverly Blvd, 90036 Los Angeles.

    ===========

    I am sure it will be a fun event and a great opportunity to finally meet Loretta, the fragrance, and to talk to Brian Pera, Memphis based movie maker, who created Woman's Picture, the anthology film inspired by classic women’s films of the thirties, forties, and fifties. And I am sure we get lots of opportunity to smell and talk about the movie characters and how they inspired me to create the fragrances, Miriam (launched 2011) and Loretta.

    Loretta visualSee you soon. We are  very much looking forward to.

    Please check the Luckyscent events page and register for their newsletter for updates and information on other events.

    Thank you.

     

     

     

  • air du

    I am back after a couple of intense days, on the bike, in thunderstorms overnight in a tent that proved to be water tight and resistant to a storm with gusty winds, after a long! wedding and some work on Sunday. I thank all readers who commented on the last post, on the topic "sotto la luna". I was thinking more about it on the bike, and the more I think about it the more I like the idea of a a line "sotto la luna".
    There is something very poetic in "gardenia sotto la luna" or "rosa sotta la luna" or any other flower under the moon. Thus, I will for sure continue thinking in this line. But to be frank: I am not hurrying to bring anything to the market these days. Hurrying to bring things to the market is wrong. I take my time and the next fragrance that will come the market is *LORETTA* from Tableau de Parfums, and in 2013 there will come 1, 2 scents that I discussed before. Thus, there is time to seriously consider a lot of aspects beforehand.

    Acutally, I am looking very much forward to presenting Loretta soon. It is very different and twisted in a positive sense and I love this fragrance.

    Anyhow, there is a poetic, a little sad, and a very evocative line in "sotto la luna". And it is funny, in a sense, l'air du désert marocain is also using the imagery of "under the moon". Back then, when I created the visuals going with the air du désert marocain, it was sketching a big moon, sitting on a dark, dark blue night sky without stars, illuminating sand hills of the Saharan desert in the Maghreb.

    I did another quick sketch this morning, with the moon more in yellow and the sandy hills of the Saharan desert more on the red- orange side. You find today's version on the left. I show you the original visual here:

    Air du désert marocain, eau de toilette intense visual Back then, about 6 years ago, I was doing my visual illustrations in Flash.

    Who knows whether L'air du désert marocain would be such a s success with a different name? Looking back 6 years now, it is actually interesting what could have been if the name was something different, like "Ouarzazate" or "l'oasis" , or "l'eau d'oasis" or something simple like "Orikatu" or "pour moi"...

    I guess I will come up with other names for perfumes  today. Time to fantasize....: Right now, I am filtering 10 liters of air du désert marocain and in about an hour or so I will start bottling, pouring it in to bottles and put all the labels on and so. Time to stock up, again.

  • sotto la luna

    "Gardenia sotto la luna" is the running title of the excel sheet where I write down my trials of the gardenia scent, and the bases that I use. Before writing this blog post, I was sketching real quick a gardenia sotto la luna (see pciture going with today's post) that sort of sums it all up.

    You remember: I made a gardenia headspace oriented base, discussed a while ago. Another base that I use, but not as a dominant note, more on the side: A white flower base, created a while ago, adjusted last December, that features lines of lily, green jasmine on a general soft, creamy background.

    I realized and remembered this when finally! moving on with the gardenia scent and coming up with the next version that should fix the gardenia bit better and that is richer in its base. I think gardenia sotto la luna is a wonderful name and in a sense, it is by itself very inspiring. sotto la luna means "night", but not a dark night, an illuminated light, by a moon. I see a few clouds, a creamy gardenia shining into the night under a open sky.

    Thus, I worked on the gardenia again, adjusting the patchouli, adding some vetiverol, going a touch higher with a dark cistus line, and bringing in more sweetness to the base. I figured that the airy green top notes radiating into the heart from the gardenia base could need some grounding, and need a complement. I also adjusted a few other ingredients but there are a few notes in the base that I did not touch: a sandalwood chord. among them.

    Sotto la luna could be a name for an entire line of scents, couldn't it? There could be a tuberosa sotto la luna, a rrose sotto la luna, a whole giardiono sotto la luna. But first things first: gardenia.

    Love it!

  • skin and about counseling

    Today's post is sort of easy as the picture already sort of says it all, and I can use the picture to tell you what happens around here. It is hot. I think Sunday was the hottest day of the year. We are all sweating like horses and try to get out of the house early in the morning, and with as little fabric as possible around us. And perfumes are not really what you want to wear in full heat.
    Mostly, I go without perfume all day anyhow, and wear my scents in the evening, or overnight, but yesterday night, before going to the gym, I felt like "give me something nice to smell", and I grabbed for my Cologne du Maghreb. For those who want to check it out in my shop: Nope, you cannot buy it (yet) from my shop. You get it exclusively these days from Indiescent.com or from First in Fragrance (Aus Liebe zum Duft). As it is fleeting like all cologne should be I usually spray it on before putting my T-shirt on. Thus, it lasts for a while, and the scent stays with me for a while. What I personally like about it: This cologne has a twist. A woody amber twist that lasts.

    I wanted to get something smelly because finally my nose was getting input again, after two days of a heavy cold and everything that belongs to it. It is nice not to sweat anymore, not to deal with a clogged or dripping nose and to smell again, at least a bit. Full resurrection might take a bit longer., though. The picture you see today is actually a picture of my upper arm that I took on Saturday, after taking a super hot sweat bath. That's about as much skin as you can expect on this blog.

    Ah, and yes: Talking about "what you can expect". These days, I get a lot of mails from perfume lovers who want to either make perfumes, need technical advice, or start a career or want to get there where I am right now. I am not entirely sure why this is, but it is like that. The last two weeks it has been 1 or 2 mails a day. Sounds like nothing but it is endless, as the first answer brings the next two mails back. And hence, I become the longer the tougher and my answers the longer the shorter. Soon, I might stop answering altogether, or will send a few words only, like "I am very sorry, but I do not have a counseling business." As much as I can understand everybody who asks: It gets annoying and too much. Or maybe I should open a consultant business on the side.

    When I started my venture, I got a few books and thought about things independently. And I feel this is the key factor if you want to become an innovative, truly creative creator: Do not look for the simple path where you find all information in books and by asking others who already marched your path. Trust me: They went their way themselves and it was important that they did so. This is true for most aspects of creating things.

    Anyhow, even with the nose not in a state where it could smell anything: I had the most vivid impressions of patchouli at some point, when thinking patchouli. In a sense, I do not need to smell the real thing. That's a comfort for the days when I am old (like really old) and my sense of smell diminishes.

    Another aspect of today's picture: Towards the bottom of the picture you see the marks of a pox vaccination. Yes, I am born 1964 and am part of the generations who got a pox vaccination. Thanks to human ingenuity, mankind does not have to worry about pox anymore. Today, you do not to get pox shots anymore as pox are eradicated.

    Here's a cheers to human ingenuity!

     

  • split rocker

    Enlightening means also demystification, destruction of the great secret.

    That`s about what I said, among other things, in the split rocker magazine on whether a scent smells better, if you know more about it.

    But first things first: The split rocker is a great, gigantic statue, created by Jeff Koons that is coverd from head to toe so to say with flowers, thousands of gardenia among others. You find a little video featuring Jeff Koons talking about his split rocker at the Beyeler foundation in Basel here (youtube): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RnWVO5u53o

    I was interviewed for a magazine dedicated to the split rocker about flowers, gardens and art and it turned out to be wonderful magazin with great pictures. Today's picture on the left of this post shows you a page out of the German magazine. I think they do not sell it anymore at the Beyeler art shop. But if you want to check the museum for other Jeff Koons articles and videos, you can do so here: http://www.fondationbeyeler.ch/en/exhibitions/jeff-koons/introduction

    I still think that what I said then to Finn Canonica (he interviewed me and put it all together. Great job!) is right. And I think when talking about perfumes it is a fine line to walk. So we will continue to talk about the upcoming Loretta fragrance and some facets of it, but there should remain a mystery, a secret that you, the wearer of Loretta, will enjoy. Because it will also be your little secret.

  • packing

    This is what I will do today: Packing Loretta from Tableau de Parfums. 50 ml flacons into boxes, with all the labels and ribbons and complimentary goodies like the Loretta DVD.

    I am preparing and getting ready for autumn's launch, at Pitti Fragranze in Florence, September 14, and at Luckyscent, in Los Angeles, Friday the 19th of October, later in the afternoon. I can't wait any longer....

    Mark your calendars!

  • Nordic summer

    Back from Helsinki with a lovely gift for a birchtar lover like me: Nordic Summer! "Nordic Summer (see today's picture) is an insect repellent, a creamy paste, like a solid fragrance actually, that smells deliciously and rough and rich from: BIRCH TAR! Yes. And yes: I haven't used birch tar in any of my compositions lately. That was an interesting moment for me, when I should my line to a round of perfume loving friends Friday night. I went from Le Maroc to the Air du désert marocain and moved on until we reached the Pentachords (and later Tableau de Parfums). And yes, presenting some of my scents of the last 7 years within 1-2 hours, I realized that I have already gone a long way from where I started. But I can still see where I started. And I feel I learned a lot while marching up and down. So that was very good!

    I also learned a few more things staying up north. Like that the sun is really weaker, and closer to the horizon. And thus, the light is different and so are the colors. And another thing I learned: Birch tar (and pine tar) are a big thing up there. And guess what: I felt very much at home there. But I think this was not only due to the scent of birch tar. I had such a warm reception and the (short) two days in Helsinki were sunny, warm and untainted by any cloud. There was not too much time for sight seeing, but I managed to get around a bit and I liked a lot what I have seen.

    I guess I need to come back one fine day. Maybe, for a change, in winter?

  • another word on gardenia

    After yesterday's post on logistics and some differences in shipment, that are not really bothering as there is always a way around and out: Today a short post on raw materials again. And gardenia. And bases built to reproduce a good part of the head space of gardenia. And on how to build a scent out of all of it. Or rather: On the state of work of the gardenia sketches.

    The picture of today: It shows you a illustration that I am working on, still unfinished. Missing the interpretation, missing some green areas, but we are working on it. I think I uploaded it a while ago on facebook.

    About the fragrance:

    It is definitely not easy. While cycling, sweating along the hills of northern Spain, I was from time to time wearing the latest gardenia trial. The regular readers of this blog know that I have built a gardenia base, with my nose stuck to a gardenia pot, blooming regularly. The gardenia still blooms, but it has some bugs (some sort of coccoida, that I try to get rid of with an insecticide that you put into the pot's earth). So I built the base and it features among other molecules methylbenzoate, tigliates, linalool and salicylates. I also use jasmine absolute and orange blossom absolute in the base to add depth. But bottomline of this gardenia base is: It is a head and heart note base, not a body note base. Meaning: It won't last forever. Thus, on my skin, at least under heavy duty conditions in Spain, the gardenia effect did not last too long.

    Adding more will not make it last longer.

    The base notes that I used in the latest trial are sandalwood, some cistus, hints of patchouli and some amber gris. They blend in nicely, but the fixative power is too little and the base is too week. In other trials the base was dominating. Thus, the challenge now, to go from version 5 to 6: Fixation.

    Fixation means to make the head and heart notes stay well in a scent, without dominating the entire composition by sticky base notes.

    Fixating is not easy. There are glue like molecules, like for instance Okoumal, that might work there. In the end, it might boil down to shifting and adjusting the base notes, without introducing new lines. I will work on it when back from Europe's north: Today, I will fly to Helsinki, in a scented mission.

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