Monthly Archives: July 2012

Items 11 to 14 of 14 total

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  • bunch of flowers

    today's picture shows you a bunch of summer flowers, scanned and slightly "photoshopped" over the weekend. This week will bring a bunch of things to get done, most of them preparatory work for the upcoming Piti Fragranze in Florence. This fragrance exhibition and show will take place September 14-16 and like every year you will find Tauer Perfumes there, at the exhibition stand of Profumimport, my Italian importer and partner. In case you have not heard or visited: Piti is big. Like really big. It is probably the nicest and biggest niche perfumery show, only comparable to Esxence in Milan, taking place every spring.

    Piti is a show case of niche brands, artisanal artistic brands and other players in the field. But it is also a sales event where you dress up, polish your smile and present the latest products that you have to an interested crowd of retailers (perfumeries) buying new products for the upcoming holiday season. Thus, my partner Profumimport and me get ready to dress up the stand, make nice logo prints on foil to stick to the plexiglass wall hanging from the ceiling, brochures and info leaflets,  and of course product: Bottles, purse sprays, sample vials. This is what I will do this week. Samples. A lot of them. And some bottles. The focus is of course on LORETTA and MIRIAM from Tableau de Parfums. It is the first time that I will present Loretta to the world. And I can't wait.

    Loretta is so sensual and mysterious. It will rock, I know that. Thus, I will make a lot, lot,  lot of samples .....More on Loretta and the bunch of flowers that you find in it and why: in the coming days. Have a great start into your week!

  • the way I see things

    Hurray: My website is up and running again. I am so relieved. As mentioned earlier, I wanted to upgrade to a secured site (you know: https://...) and got a certificate for my domain, and a specific IP addresss (not shared) and then the whole thing crashed under our hands. My IT supporter managed to get things up and running after two days and for a while we observe the system now before we make the next step: Upload the certificate and go in safe mode. ... A positive side note: The website works (again) with iphones and pads and the home loads much faster. And I removed 850 MB of trash from the site's database. Amazing how much  e-trash assembles over a year or two.

    But the last two days changed a few plans I had in terms of website and e-products....

    Anyhow: Today's picture shows you the way I see things. I am talking about the other alternative for a launch in 2013 (see the previous post for a more masculine woody tobacco leaves amber alternative): the scent that runs under "aldehydic rose". The picture shows you the main ingredients (and partly notes)  and rose for sure is one central part, but it is not really a rose scent. It is an aldehydic incense vanilla flowery scent with a strong rose component that is pretty unisex. Think Chanel 22, but less soapy.

    As I am the creator of this mixture that is quite complex: I am pretty blind. 29 ingredients, key ingredients being bergamot oil, rose oil, rose absolute, geranium, three different aldehydes (CHO in the picture), Patchouli, Vanilla, Styrax, Sandalwood from Australia, B. Serrata (Incense) (combined with Irone and a few glue molecules, such as okoumal) and more flower absolutes: Jasmine, Tuberose, Ylang. Not too much of these, but they are important to add depth and render the composition softer as the aldehydes are pretty much heavily dosed. If you do not like aldehydes: Forget this one. Can a man wear it. Absolutely. On my skin it is actually nice.

    But as I am the creator of this mixture I have a hard time thinking of it in different terms than ingredients and effect. Thus, you are confronted with a super non-sexy running title such as aldehydic rose. Which is a bit wrong. But I am not really ready to think about names, yet. It is too early. I am more wondering about which scent to launch early 2013 and getting ready in the coming months. The aldehydic rose would quite complementary to what I have in my collection. But a bit more addressing women.

    Hmmm. Maybe we have to come up with a double launch in 2013.

  • 100% oudh free

    the number of so called oudh fragrances, in so called niche and main stream,  or scents with so called oudh as a main note is growing without mercy. A quick overview of the latest additions you find for instance on Now Smell This, following the "please no more oudh"- tag. Click here for the posts with this tag. On a weekly basis you find new scents on the market with PR lines underlining the expensive and exotic character of the added oudh oil that they tell you is inside the bottle, like "with Oud oil, an extremely rare oil extracted from agarwood, a precious resin of the aquilaria tree." Actually, this line is rather modest. And it is probably true as you can add a drop of any oil extracted from agarwood in a hectoliter of perfume and you have technically added oudh oil.

    What is wrong with it? A lot. Often, "oudh" is used as a tag allowing brands to charge more because somehow everybody seems to think that perfume lovers are willing to pay extra for a fragrance with oudh notes. This does not make sense as there is not much oudh in anything. Yet, consumers pay the extra$$$ and are told that they get the exclusive fragrance with this expensive ingredient. This is wrong.

    Apart from a drop or two, the rest of the "oudh" is bases, often with cypriol, in varying qualities, far away from the "real thing". The real thing does not find its way into perfumes that you buy in your perfumery. Even if you pay 5o0$$$$. So far so good.  What else is wrong? Well, I think  oudh is used a cheap short cut to evocate and painting cliché pictures of an orient, a middle east, that does not exist. Who cares? Actually, many care, because the whole oudh hysteria of the marketing departments and the press  and other stake holders is destroying a basic trust; also a basic trust of prices. How can you, as a consumer trust now and in the future what you are told about a perfume? There is not enough oudh on this planet to make all the PR statements true. It makes you wonder: How about the roses? And the jasmine? And what do they tell me about sandalwood?

    I can see how perfume lovers reach a point where they do not take brands really serious anymore when they bring an oudh fragrance to the markets right now.

    In a similar context, yesterday, I got a bit annoyed about a PR company publishing something about an established niche brand with a great history that I like and appreciate, mentioning that it is "probably the smallest perfume manufacture in the world" (in German). A statement that is completely nonsense. There are many wonderful true perfume manufacturers on this globe that are proud to be small, and for sure smaller than this company that could afford to hire a PR company to come up with useless babbling. You find the shared PR and the discussion in German here on Facebook. Why was I annoyed? Again, for the same reason. This babbling and not entirely telling the truth by exaggerating and bending reality actually is not ok towards the the recipient, the perfume lover, the client, and retailers. The recipient will one day or another start wondering, whether the other stories that they are told are true. And this comes back to all of us who try to build trust in perfumery and perfumers, who try to tell what goes inside and what not and how it is made and how not.

    But back to this week's question: What perfume to launch. I was working for quite a while on a scent (and finished it) that is a bit spicy, a bit tobacco, a bit leather, suave, dry and fine, a bit amber, but not sweet, a bit rough, a bit wild, for sure woody oriental. I love it. It is rich, and quite complementary to what I have done so far. It lasts on skin, and I like it because in my nose it is wild and at the same time elegant. The note of dried tobacco leaves could be the dried tobacco of an expensive Cohiba. There is no smoke, though, but rather a dry, gourmand amber. I am considering to launch this scent as it would address my male fans, too.  Of course, all these adjectives are my subjective appreciation of the scent. Main ingredients and notes are:  Cypriol, ambrein, vanilla, cistus ladaniferus essential oil and resin, amber gris (not natural, of course), cinnamon, a patchouli-cacao combo and a few other things.

    And yes, trust me: It is 100% oudh free.


  • this week we will

    today I share a little picture from the Alps with you: Rhododendron hirsutum, or Hairy Alpine Rose. It has nothing to do with roses, grows wild in the Alps, and blooms these days on about 1600 meters above sea level.  I took it with my phone's cam on Saturday together with some other alpine pictures. It was an absolutely stunning day. The most impressive scent up there: Männertreu (Nigritella nigra subsp. rhellicani). Absolutely stunning.

    Like many sunny days it was followed by a very stormy, grey and rainy day and the leftovers of the rain are still hanging over the town.  So what is new in perfumery town? I will spend a couple of hours in the factory, working on larger orders from retailers, and continuing to pack some scents, stocking up. Last week, we did an inventory and counted the perfume bottles, filled and not filled, and boxes and inlays and more to get an idea where we are, in terms of stock and in terms of expenses, and putting the stock and its amortization into the books you end up with a profit or not.  It is one of the miracles of this world: Book keeping. But even with the smartest book keeping things are simple, at the very, very end of the day. One should get in what one puts out. Sort of.

    Anyhow; we counted our stuff, and I know now what I need to reorder soon, and what not. But all the counting and measuring has not answered my question, yet: What perfume to launch in 2013.

    I have two scents that are ready, super different from each other and I have not made my mind up so far. I mentioned this earlier.  I think that might be a nice topic for the coming days to discuss. With some sort of launch related side notes. For instance about trends, like the recent Oudh trend, and how these trends destroy the real thing and how nourishing the trend by talking about it destroys what was at the heart of the trend.  Sort of.

    Anyhow; I have a hard time deciding which scent to launch next year in my Tauer line. This year, I am launching LORETTA, from Tableau de Parfums, in autumn 2012, and that's another topic I wish to talk in the coming days.

    Thus, more about my forth and back in selecting a fragrance for 2013 in the coming days. And by the time we have discussed this during this week, the rain might have stopped. It sure hasn't so far and it looks like it is going to be a wet ride down to the factory.

Items 11 to 14 of 14 total

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