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Monthly Archives: February 2012

Items 11 to 15 of 15 total

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  • lines and sketches

    Unfortunately, these days see me sitting in front of the computer, facing excel, and not scents. Or I am in the "factory" packing some scents and getting retailer orders ready.  But I have a few scents on, wrist testing phase so to say, and while putting some air bottles into boxes and thinking about the boxes and other logistics issues, there is always time to smell, from left to right and from right to left.

    This moment, now on the left: Hyacinth, the -I don't know which number-th trial. And on the right wrist the fully matured and final scent that runs under the title "aldehydic rose with a woody incense base". Not a poetic name, I guess. I just checked the formula again: A very complex scent. Some of the more expensive ingredients (not notes) are: Tuberose, rose oil, rose absolute, jasmine,sandalwood from Australia, Irone alpha, Boswellia serrata CO2 extract, ... other important ingredients are: Ylang, aldehydes, some bergamot oil, geranium oil, two types of patchouli (one with high Patchoulol content) and a few other. Resulting in a  mix 30 ingredients.

    To be frank: I love it. To a point where I am seriously thinking what to do with it. Maybe I have to start another excel, a "what-to-do-with-it"-Excel.

    I am testing a 10% dilution, and might think about the dilution factor a bit longer. The same is true for the hyacinth trial (today's picture shows you another interpretation of the flower, painted on the ipad, more pink than the fragrant sketch). Hyacinth will keep me busy for a while, though.

    OK: Time to spritz some fruity rose on another free spot. This one is actually very good, but might need a touch more ambroxan. and maybe a touch more patchouli. We will see. There is time, right?

    And now, off for the factory. More air du desert for the world.

  • out of box failure

    This is actually a happy post although the title let 's you guess it might not be. The postman was busy yesterday, bringing me a lot of things: fragrant raw materials that I have been waiting for since....October 2011!  Finally, I have (almost) all ready to mix Loretta, the second fragrance from the Tableau de Parfums series. These fragrances in the Tableau de Parfums series are  inspired by movie portraits in Woman's Picture, a film created by Brian Pera, but -contrary to what I read the other day in a comment- they are not celebrity scents or perfume made for a particular human being. I think that's important to mention again.

    Loretta will launch in autumn 2012 and it is getting time to produce it. One message from this post is: if you see a fragrance in the shelfs in autumn 2012, its logistics and production started eventually 12 months ago. Add another 12-24 months for its creation and you have timeline from start to launch of 2-3 years.  Frightening, isn't it? Right now, I am waiting for one last molecule. In the mean time, I make all ready for the launch of Miriam, the first fragrance from Tableau de Parfums, in Italy, where we plan to present it early May at Campomarzio, in Rome. I am really, very much, looking forward to presenting Miriam in Italy. I feel that Miriam will find a lot of fans in the south.

    Bringing Miriam to Italy translates into some translation work, too. With the 50 ml size Miriam comes a novelette, written by Brian Pera. This novelette, called "From the desk of Miram Masterson", shows an other sides of the character Miriam and goes beyond the movie part. Both, the story and the movie, are part of the Miriam 50 ml packaging, by the way. And for those who missed it all: Here is the Miriam packaging explained in a little vimeo video, by Andy Tauer. Just click here to get to vimeo. Thus, we will translate the novelette for Italy, and print it specifically for Italy. I insisted on this because I think the novelette it is important to fully appreciate the fragrance and the character who inspired it.

    I remembered all this when I was testing the digital foto frame yesterday. Yes, there we go: I am coming to the title of this post in a second. I wanted the movie part of Tableau de Parfums to be somehow visible to perfume lovers in perfumeries in Italy. Therefore, I figured out that I will -together with my Italian partner who takes care of my fragrant babies in Italy, ProfumImport in Milano- make a display that presents Tableau de Parfums and Miriam and that shows little sections of film clips, highlighting together with text what Tableau de Parfums and Woman's Picture and Miriam is all about.

    The display will be produced in Switzerland, it will be about 50x30 cm, super expensive, and integrate a digital foto frame, 10'' size, and will be really cool. I visited the company producing it all by hand, using wood, iron, cardboard, printed fabric and the digital frame. From a commercial point of view it might not make sense. In a sense that I will not get it paid back in a year or two. But I think from an artistic and communication point of view it makes much sense. And not everything I do must make sense from a commercial point of view. That's my privilege. And that's - by the way- why you get 1,2 fragrances in my line that are ridiculously expensive to produce and do not entirely make sense from a commercial point of view.  At least not for the price tag that I mark them with. But that's another story.

    Here you see the first draft for the display that I made, asking the company to offer me 25 of these displays.

    A simple sketch of the display from the side.

    In the mean time, we started working seriously on it and for that I ordered the first digital frame to build the display around it. I also made a little test video to see whether it does play MPEG4 video. It arrived. It worked, but unfortunately, the screen has one line that is not ok. The frame is a simple out of the box failure and needs to be replaced. See the picture going with today's post. There you see a little green line in the LCD display.

    However, as time is short, I will ask Intenso, the company producing it, whether we can keep it for a month and then ask for a replacement, to build the prototype. I am curious to hear what they say.

    Another parcel that I got: A new headphone. For my ipod and for traveling. I got it in pristine condition and can cut the world off my ears now. It feels like meditation, but without the intense work needed to find the inner calm.

     

  • a lovely hyacinth (again) and a tight travel schedule

    There we are again: I got 5 fresh hyacinths on Saturday and enjoy their developing bloom and their fragrance. Thus, the picture of today is a quick scan of one of them, some dust removed with photoshop, but otherwise pretty "natural" and not photoshop enhanced.

    I also sniffing a hyacinth sketch I made about  two weeks ago. I talked about this sketch, consisting of 20 or so ingredients here. I think I like it and will dilute now, that it has matured for two weeks. That's about all I will do on experimental level today. I need to make more stock of a variety of samples, and box perfumes, and will do so later today, after I was successful in convincing myself to ride the bike. It is pretty chilly and the idea of getting onto the bike riding down the hill towards tauerville is not really inviting.

    Furthermore, I will need to continue playing PR and come up with some text, after I played travel agency over the weekend, booking flights and hotels and trains for March and April and May. To be frank: March is going to be a  touch too much, and you will see Andy hopping  from Munich early March to Rome to New York to Paris and to Milano and then in early April to Paris again. You can expect more and all details on my travel schedules and the why soon.

     

  • a lovely lavender

    Today, I will continue there where I stopped yesterday: Packing some perfume. The picture to the left gives you an idea how this is done: Take the bottled fragrance, put an inlay into the metal box, put the silver cardboard paper with my signature on top before closing the box, seal it all with the large sticker,add a little lot label and put it all into the cellophane plastic bag. Do all this 24 times and then we have the storage unit of packed perfumes filled: Cardboard boxes, holding 24 units each. In theory I try to have some stock of packed fragrance. I practice I don't have much stock.

    Actually, looking at things: quite an effort, and on the side, quite an expensive effort.  Thus, in a sense, it was a welcome reminder of a couple of things when I got my order from Caldey.

    I ordered their lavender eau de toilette and got it yesterday. It is lovely, straightforward, a high quality lavender, very much praised by Luca Turin, and I wanted to get it. Smelling it was quite a strong reminder of my love for lavender. And looking at their packaging reminded me very much that at the end, at the very end, ultimately, all that matters is the juice. At least my nose works like that.

    A nice reminder.

    On the other hand, an opulent and dramatic  fragrance like Rose chyprée needs some sort of a packaging celebration. Thus, the world is complex, both sides are relevant and true.

  • after mixing is before mixing

    So I mixed Incense rosé and Miriam yesterday. Both juices are in a safe guarded place now and mature. After mixing, carrying the two aluminum bottles with me (you see how they look in today's picture), I realized that I actually carry quite a bit of money with me; my bookkeeper tells me so, too. We got the invoice for the latest raw material order, and I will need to order more in the coming weeks. Although, on a side note, I am shifting slightly my priorities: From availability of perfumes to cash flow. This means that I rather don't have a fragrance in stock than blowing up my stock and reducing my company cash. This is a lesson I learned last year: We had 100% availability all year of all fragrances. This meant that my stock was always very high and that I had a lot of money blocked in stock. This year, with a couple of investments in mind and a lot of uncertainty about the markets and how the financial crisis will be dripping down, I want to have a bit less stock.

    Anyhow. I just wanted to mention this issue on the side, showing you the  multitude of questions that even a very little business brings up.

    Thus, the last order consisted of Iso E, Okoumal, Ambroxan, irone alpha, linalool, rose absolute, cardamom oil, Clementine oil, rose oil, ylang oil, and cistus ladaniferus essential oil &extract.

    The last natural is a thrilling raw material. I mentioned it yesterday, as it is an essential part of Incense rosé. I use it since years in some of my compositions, among other things you find it in the Air du désert marocain, too. It is rather expensive, around 3000-4000 $US per kilogram. I use a quality of cistus essential oil that is standardized. It is basically the steam distilled essential oil of twigs from Cistus ladaniferus plus a bit extra added for standardization. The standardization is made by adding some of the extract that results as by product /waste in the steam distillation process. Thus, the producer adjusts each batch by adding more or less extract to make sure it smells the same, and the extract adds extra fixation power.

    The scent of this raw material: Warm and woody-spicy. Not sweet balsamic like you know it from Labdanum absolute. This essential oil is more on the wild-leathery-spicy side. Very dry and warm, if this makes sense. Actually, if all goes well I will use it later today again, together with cypriol, to test an idea I have since days in my mind but not mixed in a test bottle, yet. But first things first: The travel agency tauer continues booking flights and trains and more. So far I have booked Munich, Rome, Paris, Paris again, and Rome again.  It is going to be a busy spring, a touch too busy.

     

Items 11 to 15 of 15 total

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