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Monthly Archives: July 2011

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  • 6 years perfumery blogging anniversary draw

    THIS draw is closed.

    See the post of July 13 for the winners. Congratulations to the winners and thank you to all who participated!

    today is the Tauer Perfumes perfumery blogging 6th anniversary. Time to celebrate with a little draw. I give away 6 fragrances.  Here is what you need to do in order to take your chance in my 100% (promised!) random draw, using random.org:

    -> Pick any 3 digit number that you like and write this number in your comment. (If you write the right at the beginning you help me to find it easier )

    -> make sure you leave a valid e-mail when commenting (not inside the comment)

    That's it!

    And if you wish, you can tell the world why you picked your particular 3 digit number.

    I will pick the winner: I will ask for a 3 digit random number on random.org and the 6 happy comments whose numbers get closest  will win. For multiple winners with the same number: I pick one of them (again, randomly)

    The fragrant prize is a full bottle from my range of fragrances, and it is your choice which one, including the PENTACHORDS White, Auburn, or Verdant.

    The draw is open for AT LEAST 24 hours  and when closed, it will say here. THIS DRAW IS CLOSED.

    For our privacy policy: See details here. In brief: I will not use your address for anything else than contacting you if you won, and I will not forward it to nobody, nor sell it).

  • time to play

    I got a wonderful sample of bay leaves essential oil and enjoyed playing with it and other raw materials on my desk. Nothing serious, though.

    Just a playing round, and do not expect any launch soon. But it was time to start playing again. The bay leave oil, by the way, has like two sides. Mr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. First it is incredibly campherous, think "Vaporup " or Eucalyptus. The certificate of analysis says so, too. A lot of cineol, also known as Eucalyptol is in there and  later in phase two, the eugenol comes out, and it smells lovely of dried clove buds with a woody undertone. All raw materials that I use come with a certificate of analysis of my supplier(s). Usually, I buy my raw materials from Essencia, a company serving Switzerland (only). These certificates are important to check for allergens, for Ifra limits and of course! in order to make sure that the raw materials are not adulterated or simply diluted.

    An example: Rose absolute contains naturally about 50-70% phenylethanol, a cheap molecule if you buy it from Sigma Aldrich Fluka. Thus, you better check your phenylethanol in rose absolute and make sure that the Bulgarian quality does not exceed 70% phenylethanol, otherwise, you pay a lot for nothing. Thus, iIf you buy your botanicals (from any supplier) always ask for a certificate with at least a few quality determining data, a GC etc. if your supplier cannot provide you that then something might be wrong.

    Vaporup is not an ideal note for a fragrance, though, and -if ever using bay leaves oil - it would need a careful hand and quite some camouflaging of phase 1. But then, it might be a nice note for a masculine eau de toilette fougère ... And camouflaging is half the rent in perfumery anyhow.

    Other playing activities this weekend: all ipad related, much fun!

    And looking out into this coming week, I see these highlights:  Besides my "usual" bottle filling (Orange Star), we are supposed to get a new delivery of flacons (the red-brown 30 ml sized Homage line flacon, and more of the blue flacons). And we are in waiting position for all the Tableau de Parfums labels and stickers: I managed to finish them all and send the order out and now we wait. And we are not good in waiting. And yes, Milano's calling for a quick meeting. It looks like a good week ahead.

  • a picture of a rose

    The picture of today shows you one details: A stylized rose, that you will find in all MIRIAM manifestations: Samples, purse spray and 50 ml flacon.

    Today, I will order all the final labels and stickers that I need for MIRIAM, the first fragrance of the Tableau de Parfums line, inspired by the character MIRIAM in Woman's Picture, brought to life by the actor Ann Magnuson.

    It is a rose, as Miriam is a perfume built around a green vintage rose, but it could also be a violet, as violets are playing a central role in Miriam, too. The color is quite close to an "antique fuchsia", complementing a faded shade of pink that we use on some labels, a color that I picked to be very close to "tea rose".  You get the idea, I guess.

    Thus, I need to go through all label files again, make sure that they are print-ready and then I send them off. And then, after a few its and bits down in the warehouse, my weekend will start in the evening. I hope I find some time to play: I have a few ideas in my head for chords and combinations of notes and now that almost everything is in place for Tableau de Parfums the time has slowly but surely come to start playing again. I missed working with my fragrant bottles.

    Ah, yes. In the mean time, Brian will get ready to present Woman's picture at Outfest in Los Angeles (July 11 and 16). Outfest is cool. If you are in the area...

  • labels for MIRIAM

    Today is going to be an exciting day. I will meet friends and will spend some time cooking.

    And in between, I will continue working on labels for MIRIAM, the first fragrance of Tableau de Parfums. The label I am working on right now goes onto the back of every packaging and contains the information on allergens, and the warnings, like avoid spraying in eyes and who actually made the fragrance. The warnings label: To put it into straight words is "Stupidity in four languages". Folks should not spray anything in eyes, even distilled water, and those who do not know yet are kids who cannot read or adults out of reach of these labels.

    It is just one little example of what goes very wrong in our societies since years. And it gets worse. You want a society that has the guts to fly to Mars or to build an empire? Get rid of warning labels.

    On a happier note: I got the printing approval for the packaging print yesterday and now the MIRIAM packaging goes into print. There are several packagings: One for the 50ml flacon and one for the 7 ml purse spray and one for the 1 ml samples. Each will have a print on the front "Tableau de Parfums" and a pattern printed on the inside.  When I showed the draft for the first time to my Italian partner, he looked at it and said: "Oh... this is a vintage packaging".

    "Yes", I replied. "It sure is, equally expensive". It fits with the perfume MIRIAM perfectly.

    Today's picture: a draft of the inlay pattern

  • mixing for Q4

    It is summer. Time to think X-mas. In a few moments I will start mixing Une Rose chyprée. The bottles with the raw materials are out of the fridge and cool cellar since yesterday night and had time to come to room temperature. It is 31 ingredients, from Ambrein to Zitrone (lemon) and quite tricky to mix, with lots of viscous and sticky resins. Think: Needs time to clean up afterwards.

    Actually, mixing in itself is fun and does not take too much time. But it needs a lot of preparation and after work. First, we need to check that we got everything and have to order what is missing, keeping in mind that we will mix other perfumes, too. Thus, I have created a while ago a SUPER Excel, that gives me an overview about all stock I have. Then I need to reorder all that is missing and wait. Then the CA, certificates of analysis, need inspection: Are we still on the safe side (allergens)?

    And then, after mixing, I need to write down all the lot numbers of the ingredients for a particular mixture, put all the stuff back and clean up. The sticky resins such as Tolu balm or Oakmoss are like glue.

    Looking at things from a less excel and more fragrant side: Rose chyprée is actually a mixing highlight. It is all in there, the roses (both oil and absolute), the jasmin (Egypt), resins and woods (tolu, ambrein, ...), the citrus reign (lemon, geranium, bergamot, lemongrass), spices (bay and cinnamon), patchouli and more.

    Ah, yes: When mixed into a 12 liter aluminum can, it gets a label, goes into the fridge for 1 month, to get diluted afterwards and be ready by mid September, to go into bottles  and ship in the days before X-mas. That's the plan.

    Today's picture shows you ambroxan on scale: Yesterday, I mixed Incense extrême, which is in a nutshell incense and ambroxan and orris heaven. Much simpler to mix. Ha!

  • LA Times Magazine Swiss Mix by Denise Hamilton

    Fragrant greetings from Zurich to you all. Zurich is in Switzerland and part of the Swiss mix that consists on high tech, cows on alps, some banks and more. Actually, you could call Switzerland a hot spot of perfume industry, too. Not because I work and create here in Switzerland, but rather because Givaudan and Firmenich are big players and have their base in Switzerland. I think it has to do with color industry of the early industrial days around here that perfume industry is part of the Swiss mix.

    In a different context, you find "Swiss Mix" today, in the Los Angeles Times Magazine. Denise Hamilton has a regular feature, or rather article series, called UNCOMMON SCENTS,  and there she explores the universe of uncommon and maybe unknown scents. This month, the article deals with my venture and says all about Tauer, the past, the present, the future. Quite amazing. Denise is a writer and you realize that: She managed to condense my plans and visions and our chat into something bigger. I read it and said to the W.-factor, "Wow!, look at this. It says it all. That's about all I am doing and heading for in an article."

    Unfortunately, the W.-factor was watching a crime story and wasn't really in the mood to read online, thus I share my joy with you.

    Here is the link to the article. Enjoy!

  • fragrant weekend

    I wish you a lovely Sunday!  After a rather busy day yesterday with EU allergen labels, some design work for Miriam and fragrant soaps to be wrapped and packed for a family party (see today's picture), I look forward to a Sunday full of Sunday routines:

    14 miles jogging, more design  and Excel work, and a few games somewhere in between.

    I love routines, provided they do not come too often.

    Have a fragrant weekend!

Items 11 to 17 of 17 total

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