Monthly Archives: July 2011

Items 1 to 10 of 17 total

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  • fruitchouli

    Sometimes I read the blogs, and I am always far, far behind. The other day I was on NowSmellThis, trying to figure out how others deal with the flood of new releases. An interesting post, because I cannot handle the new releases anymore: Like many others commenting on NST, I have my list of brands that I follow. And most other releases happen without me even noticing. Usually, the more "inspired" and the more accompanied by pictures a fragrance PR is, the less I am interested. The louder PR folks or websites or blogs or magazines bang on launches, the less I am willing to put my nose on and into it. Thus, I miss most of what happens out there.

    On a side note: I had to smile reading some of the comments on the Now Smell This post: There was a short discussion if and amazement that Tauer is an indie brand. Yes, Tauer is an indie line. I guess still being a one man show (with some helping hands of the W.-factor) qualifies for being indie.

    Anyhow, I think we go through a phase of perfume exuberance. Too much of too little value. From all sides we are flooded with perfume, and flanking products such as candles, tea, soaps et al.  Thus, I was reading on NST, reading Linda's comment on fruitchoulis and I wondered why I have never done a fruitchouli. You know: A gigantic peach, with a powdery patchouli, served on a sugar plate. In a sense it might be fun. I have to admit: I cannot properly remember smelling any fruitchouli out there.

    I will be doing a hike or two on Friday and over the weekend. Thus, here is your opportunity to tell me which fruitchouli  is actually worth smelling. I feel like I should visit this category and maybe I should try a bit more to smell my way through industry's exuberance in the coming weeks. Sort of preparing for Pitti Fragrance in Florence on September 9 where we will smell the best that perfumers come up with.

  • spray sample pump

    I am talking "samples" again. Continuing sort of there, where I stopped yesterday. Today I show you one of the most reliable items I have in my growing collection of materials that I use to present my fragrances to the ethereal world. The picture on the left shows you the spray pump of my samples in glass vials and it actually is amazingly robust and reliable. Very, very rarely we got one not working. Close to zero. Looking at it in its details and beauty, you might realize how low tech and high tech at the same time it is. A simple mechanism, but a highly precise production and assembly, making the sample vial basically 100% leak tight. I love them. Most of the time.

    Today, we will fill more glass vials and put these pumps on top; by hand, of course.

    Now, in my next life as perfumer, I would probably make my entire sample offerings a bit different. In order to just try a fragrance, these glass spray vials are a bit too much an effort. In order to try a perfume, I am convinced that you do not need sprays. It is a matter of convenience. Plastic sprays, or simple dab 1 ml vials should be enough to get an idea of a fragrance. The next size would then be somewhere around 5-10 ml, like a decant size. And then I would offer the full flacon size.

    For Tableau de Parfums - as mentioned earlier- I will do exactly this. And there, for the first fragrance called Miriam, the sample is a simple dab vial because  I want to offer a DVD together with the sample, without giving too much money away. This teaser DVD introduces the world of Miriam, and the entire world that Brian creates in his moving pictures and me in my fragrant pictures. Brian is doing this teaser DVD now.

    This is why I had to come up with a sample packaging that allows at the same time to protect and pack a DVD. I think nobody has ever done this on that scale.

    And I had no idea how much work goes into the cut and assembly of moving pictures. It is amazing how much time it needs to produce a nice, professional DVD. I am glad I just need to make perfumes.

  • gladioli and illustrator

    It was time to scan a flower again:  Thus, I share a total scentless Gladiolus with you. One of a bunch of flowers that bloom in pink and magenta and violet colors.

    Today, if I can get my brain in painting mode, will see me on Illustrator. For Tableau de Parfums and Evelyn Avenue and Woman's Picture. In the next day(s) I will get the packaging for the samples and the 50 ml flacon of Tableau de Parfums. The effort that Brian Pera and me put into the sample offering and the perfume presentation (and protection) is gigantic. From a commercial point of view a bit too much. But then: Brian and me are in this for other reasons. The samples, for instance, will come with a teaser DVD that will introduce into the movie world of Woman's Picture.

    I think it is important because the perfumes are inspired by portraits of women in Woman's Picture. I feel that only by watching the movie, by immersion into the world of Miriam, her mother, her memories, you can fully appreciate the fragrance and why I came up with it the way we will present it soon to you.

    Actually, it is even about more. Evelyn Avenue is a panopticom, a street in Memphis, people coming by and leaving, a world of movies, fragrances, and collaboration, a liaison of people and artists. The movie Woman's Picture that features the inspiring portraits for Tableau de Parfums is one place on Evelyn Avenue where we all meet. There are others.

    The fragrances are an entry ticket to Evelyn Avenue and Woman's picture. And the other way round. I want perfume lovers to watch out and go for a walk on Evelyn Avenue when they get a sample of Miriam, or a purse spray, or a full bottle.

    This is way I am sitting here on Illustrator and try to arrange some text on a nice piece of semi transparent, parchment like paper that will go inside every box and every sample envelope.

    To learn more on Evelyn Avenue and Tableau de Parfums:  There is  no  better place than Evelyn Avenue, the website. If you visit the Blog now (clicking here) then you learn for instance about the GLORIES, a band from Memphis, and learn how important music is when doing a movie and how Brian came up with music for a particular scene. Follow the link to the Glories and you can download and listen to some of their tracks.

    OK... back to Illustrator!

  • one word on Marjoram

    Today's picture shows you a bundle of fresh Marjoram, given to me by a dear perfumer friend over the weekend, together with a sample of Marjoram CO2 extract. In one word: Wow!

    This is an extract that is as close to the scent of crushed marjoram leaves as you can possibly get. A top note, for sure, fleeting, not lasting on paper, but  of a wonderful complexity. It reminds me in dry Alpine slopes in high summer with herbs on rocky ground sending their perfume into the sun. There is definitely a campherous note in it, a little soapiness, green leaves, but not the juicy type, more the green notes that you can discover in hay.

    A natural treasure. When I smell new essential oils or other fragrant material, I always imagine what might fit with it, and where you could go with it.

    Marjoran would give a wonderful head note in a fougère, together with Geranium concrète, lavender, bergamot. In my mind, I am undecided about the base notes, yet. I guess  tonka and vetiver, and maybe a hint vanilla CO2.  I guess I can dream on them while bottling Rêverie today (will do so in a second). Actually, this Marjoram note would work wonders in a cologne, too.

    Thus, here we are again: Colognes. And Fougères. I love them all!

  • a spot in N+1 -dimensional space

    a perfume is a spot in a N+1 dimensional space. With N=the number of different ingredients you choose. Where exactly in this N+1 -dimensional universe you find the perfume spot depends on the ratios along the axes. If sprayed and released from the flacon, this perfume spot  will travel over time along the axis in this N+1 -dimensional universe and will develop. Some spots stay like fixed stars. Some are very fleeting, some change, some are new, some are here to last.

    When creating a perfume, you choose these N dimensions carefully and you make sure that the spot is there, where you feel it belongs to. And you make sure that it wanders through the sky in an orbit that you like and that is interesting. The art of fragrance design is: Placing the perfume spot properly in a universe that is almost empty. There is so much space for exploration. There are so many dimensions to choose from that you will almost always end up in uncharted territory.

    Not everybody will look into the sky with these perfumes spots the same way. We all bring our package of memories with us out there. We are conditioned. We live in a context. We have expectations what we want and will see. all this and subjectivity add another dimension. Maybe this dimension is the most interesting. Thus, perfumes are spots in a N+1 dimensional space. + 1 is you.

    Today, I share three reviews on the blogosphere with you. I recommend reading them. They are all  this +1 dimension and each leads you to a different place.


    Perfumeshrine on Pentachords.

    Sorcery of scent on Pentachords

    Beauty on the Outside on Rêverie au Jardin

  • this stuff brings back memories

    There is not much you can do: Perfume is subjective. What is gloriously shining on your skin is bääh! for somebody else. No way to convince that bääh! is not bääh! But there is hope that (at least!) a bääh! perfume is recognized as a creative master piece. It will remain bääh! , but in the category of masterpieces.

    Yesterday, I felt like Cuir de Russie, after a grey and wet day, and I reached for my perfume strength masterpiece in a bottle from Chanel. I love it. It is a masterpiece and a perfume that reaches back in time. So I went to bed with it, and I realized (again) how different these perfumes where, back then. Although perfume strength, it was not particularly strong, and you could feel how it was not glued together with the superglues such as Okoumal that fix any banality for eternity.

    And it speaks a different language. It is much less loud. It is like reading a newspaper from the twenties and comparing it to tabloid of today. And then, suddenly, you realize what we have gone missing, while getting a lot of new treasures. So, I am totally taken, reading the lines of this old, past, fragrant story, when the W.-factor comes by and goes like "Bääh, I don't like it!"

    "But it is Cuir de Russie, perfume strength, a masterpiece. A classic!", I go.

    "I don't like it", the .-factor replied. "But look at this wonderful birchtar line. That's like in Lonestar Memories, and then the animalic notes!", I try ...

    "I do not like it, it smells odd!"

    "Well, I guess, in a sense it does.

    But it's a masterpiece.", I finally add in, and "yes, I can see that" is as good as it got yesterday.

    I gave up, went to bed, fell into sleep, remembering a line from Woman's Picture, where Miriam says "this stuff brings back memories". Actually, this was one line that I found important to keep in mind when I saw the movie the first time. Miriam is a perfume that brings back memories, too. Memories of a time when perfumes were different. Own memories of times when we were different. I started remembering how I used to smell Cuir de Russie, going back in time, trying to understand how perfumes were done a century ago. In the mean time, I moved on, but I still love to go back to the classics, be it vintage versions or not. So much better than much, much, much else that drolls  around in pink bottles.

    Sometimes, I feels good to go back in memory and look into the mirror of past days.

    Today's job: Filter Miriam. Open the 10 liter aluminum bottles and filter the juice. Everytime I filter a new juice for the first time it means a lot to me. It is, together with the first flacons poured, a moment where the work of months or years comes to an end.

  • soaps to win in a woman's picture draw

    If you have not done so, now is the time to catch the chance to win a Tauer scented soap:  "LIKE" woman's picture on facebook. Brian Pera hosts a give away with 30 scented soaps that I have sent him, called "MANDARINES AMBRÉE", made for the occasion. You cannot get them anywhere. The only thing you have to do to enter the draw: Like Woman's picture on facebook. Here is the link .

    Brian Pera announced this draw on Evelyn Avenue, under "latest", by the way, and always worth checking. There, you find more on Tableau de Parfums, Woman's picture and what it is that Brian and me have cooking together these days. I got the last packaging zero series part on which I need to give the ok before it goes into production: The envelop for the 7 ml purse spray. This is the last piece and it is simple, like an envelope, to keep costs down, but protective, and will be in line with the sample envelop, and distinguish itself from the packed 50 ml flacon. And now I have to wait until all labels and envelops and boxes come in. As soon as they do I will publish pictures, as I cannot wait to share.

    Initially, I wanted to pack the purse spray in a box, too. But I figured, that the purse spray does not need an expensive, vintage inspired box, like we get it done for the 50 ml flacon: With linen texture, printed card board inlays and all that. I rather try to offer it for a cent or two less.

    Yesterday, on the way to the movies, my book keeper and me discussed on the stock we have these days and the expenses that we face the next weeks. For this year, my investments are sort of over. My stock grew heavily and the new brand Tableau de Parfums is all paid for from my savings. Building this brand is expensive, but important: Tableau de Parfums is different to Tauer Perfumes, in its aesthetics, in its fragrant language, in its source of inspiration. I cannot wait to share the first perfume, Miriam, early October in Los Angeles, at Luckyscent, who supported it all.

  • basil

    Over the weekend I did a lot of things, most of them not perfume related, such as making some pesto, with basil grown on our balcony, stored in the freezer now, to enjoy the summer sun later this year.  Today's picture shows you some leaves before they were scrunched together with olive oil, some Parmesan cheese, pine seeds, garlic and salt.

    Other highlights were jogging in pouring rain, with some grey clouds over me, and thinking about the financial crisis while doing so and coming up with the conclusion that today's financial crises (II), or the dept crisis,  is actually also a deep crisis of the world`s economic and political leaders and leadership and hence we are in for changes, whether we like it or not. The brew cooking these days is the juice revolutions are made of.

    On a brighter side, I found time to work on my excel and come up with perfume formulas; working on a  Tauer hyacinth base, a green floral mixture that can be used later to bring in a hyacinth note;  not a super green as basil, and not as campherous, almost minty as the crunched basil leaves, but a bit spicy.  Fun! and finally me playing with molecules again. Talking molecules: In case you did not read it yet, please visit Giovanni Sammarco's Fragrance Scout blog (click here) and read the interview with me there, on Pentachords, on synthetic molecules, and a few thoughts on boredome in perfumery.  Enjoy!

  • play time

    Tolu balm will be part of my play time in a second. It is Friday afternoon and after a busy week I figured I must become a bit more playful and fragrantly start an excel and calculation dominated weekend. Calculations are for Tableau de Parfums and whether I like it or not: I have to come up with prices there.

    Tolu balm is, by the way,  about 20% Benzyl benzoate, which ifself smells balsamic, and somewhat fruity.  Tolu balm smells balsamic, like an spicy vanilla and warm cinnamon bark.  Other bottles on the table today: Vanilla CO2 extract, Benzoin CO2 extract, lavender CO2 extract, bergamot, rose oil, bay leaves, orange peel oil, cistus steam distilled, some styrax resinoid,  and many, many more.

    Happy mixing ahead!

    I wish you a lovely and fragrant weekend. Enjoy!

  • and the winners are

    This is the day after the blog birthday and the lucky winners of a fragrance of their choice form my range are:

    elizabeth, J Champion, Asali, Alexandra, Tara, Borko Boris

    The random number was, by the way, 933.

    The happy winners will get an e-mail from me and the others get a thank you for participating. Actually, this time the chances were very good. Statistically it was about 4% . That's not too bad a chance to win.

    Wishing you all a lovely day.

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