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Monthly Archives: January 2011

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  • Linden blossom fragrance matures

    We got the tickets for Milano, heading there for a day towards the end of this week, in order to discuss a few 2011 things with my Italian business partner who takes so much good care on my brand in Italy. I will discuss the plans for the coming months and the scents of spring. And the LINDEN BLOSSOM scent. I hope that I have all ready by April to ship the bottled fragrance that is playing with the Linden blossom note, and that I built around a natural Linden blossom Carbon Dioxide extract from Bulgaria. If interested: you can find out more on the development of this fragrance on the open letters series on Nathan Branch's blog, clicking here.

    I calculated the price of all the raw materials going in there. ... oups. When I create a fragrance I do not think too much about its price. Actually, I do not think at all about its production costs.  Thus, I realized (again), how complex and rich this fragrance is. It is a very flowery composition, with lots and lots of roses, a neroli - citrus chord, an added orange blossom absolute line, ylang, tons of sandalwood essential oil, vanilla carbon dioxide and an overdosed linden blossom essential oil addition.

    I will present the fragrance as part of a separate line within the brand, called Collectibles, in green 50ml pentagonal flacons and a different labeling concept that should underline the artistic, limited and exclusive aspect of the fragrance. The first batch of 1000 flacons are ordered and I should get them in March.

    The scent is mixed and sits in the cellar, maturing as reddish-orange juice, about the same color like the middle point of the pear in the picture to the left. I bought it on Saturday because it looked so yummie and because the color fits neatly with the color of the fragrance concentrate that needs to mature for another 3-4 weeks.

    I will dilute it when I am back from my trip to Moscow and St. Petersburg.

    And yes, the pear has not survived the weekend.

  • on labels and stickers

    In a previous post I learned in the comments section that I forget from time to time to outline simple but important things when it comes to what I do.

    OK, there we go: Everything you get from tauer is hand made in Switzerland by... tauer. Actually, it says so on every sample and every box. But I guess it is quite rare to have one guy doing it all. Thus, all you get is composed, created and hand made by myself, here in Zurich. Only a few brands work like me, trying to stay connected to what they produce, through all stages of the production process. Of course, there is a limit of what you can do yourself. And I am at the edge of reaching this point. But then, in the future, everything might be hand made by myself and a helping hand.

    Anyhow, we put all labels  on the flacons etc. by hand. I made a little still life for the Carillon pour un ange, to the left: You see the metal box with the label going around it, sealing it and labelling it. I get these in roles of 500 pieces and need to order a lot of them. One of my other challenges these days: Keeping all these stocks of labels and bottles and boxes.

    You see the simple batch number labels, in the middle of the picture, stripes of black and white: I print these myself as all the batch numbers change frequently. You find batch/lot numbers on every flacon, every box, and every sample vial. Thus, if needed, I can trace down every sample or flacon: I can basically follow every drop of perfume down to each lot of raw materials used in its production.

    There is another sheet with labels, lying under the role with the large Carillon labels. These sheets contains information about the pentagonal metal box: "Pentagonal box produced under the license of Sweet Memories Establishment, Vaduz, Liechtenstein."

    I produce the box in a license model, as the pentagonal metal box is a protected design. Talking protection:  "tauer" is a registered trademark, the tauer logo is protected and so is the flacon, in Europe and the US. But this is another topic, ...an endless story!

    Have a fragrant weekend everybody!

  • Scented cards

    Yesterday, I got the scented cards, perfumed with the scent of the CARILLON POUR UN ANGE, delivered to my house. Hurray! They smell -like the test we did beforehand- gorgeous and incredibly close to what you get out of the flacon. Thus, this week is definitely a Carillon week.

    These cards are a bit difficult to make pictures of. But I tried....The paper is actually snow white, but in order to get the relief out, I used different colored lights...

    The front page has a relief embossed: Tauer and IMMERSIVE SCULPTURES at the bottom.

    Here a detail of the relief. In this resolution, you can guess the fine structure of the paper that consists of super extra long fibers. It holds the perfume for weeks and weeks and weeks.

    Each of the cards is wrapped in a little Polypropylene bag that seals the cards.

    relief detail

    relief

    The back side shows the negative relief and the name of the perfume, in fine Avant Garde letters.

    Love it!  Soon in perfumeries nearby.....And I will use it to ship with  orders.

    backside of scented card

    backside

  • American walnut and other design decisions

    In case you have not done it: leave a comment in YESTERDAY's post (click here) to make sure to take your chance in the draw for a Carillon pour un ange. Today, we go back to normal and discuss a design detail that I forgot yesterday while cheating with Photoshop.

    First, it is amazing how nicely you can bend reality using pictures and photoshop. What I forgot yesterday: The cover top.

    The HOMAGES line of fragrances (Carillon pour un ange, une rose chyprée and the rose vermeille) get a new top. I mentioned it once here on the blog. The black top that you know is made from beech wood. The new cover top for the HOMAGES I wanted to be different.

    The glass pearls inside the 30 ml flacon are a little bit like gravel or sand on a beach. Thus, I and the designer from the Designers Club (or the other way round) in Zurich figured we continue in this association. The cover top should look  like driftwood. You can see the texture of the wood and it feels like it has been worked hard by the elements. To get this effect, we picked American walnut wood. Then we get it brushed real hard by hand, to bring the texture out. Then we get it lacquered to protect the wood, without any added color.

    From now on, we send all HOMAGES flacons out with such a wooden top. A detail, but it adds to the exclusivity of the line and helps underlining what the homages scents are all about.

    The picture to the left shows you the top cover on the Carillon pour un ange flacon.

  • exclusive draw, be the first...

    ==THE DRAW FOR A CARILLON POUR UN ANGE IS OVER==

    =RANDOM.ORG PICKED THE LUCKY WINNER: ANGIE C., COMMENT NR. 12 =

    =congratulations to you, Angie, and thank you to all who participated=
    The draw of the weekend is over, the winner is Marianne (second comment on the last post ) and random.org was very cool and easy and had no problem with the number 2 not looking random. But wait, wait.... do not run away right now. Here's the news for today: Yesterday, we got the labels for the CARILLON POUR UN ANGE in the 30 ml HOMAGES line format. Hurray!

    The color is baby boy sky blue. The picture to the left shows you the flacon with the label, put on by photoshop .

    As always: We have a new toy in our house and I look so much forward to filling flacons with the Carillon fragrance, putting the labels on the flacon, putting the labels on the boxes and putting the labels on sample cards. I bet this joy will rather soon turn into normal routine. But for the time being: It is all new and exciting.

    The first flacons will go to Italy (think April). The rest of the world will see the new flacon in May (think mid May).

    But you, as loyal readers of this blog, you have the chance to win the first flacon that I will fill in the coming days with the new labels put on by myself in the coming days,  by just leaving a comment in the comment section of this post.

    I will pick the winner on Friday. Good luck!

    (for our privacy policy: See details here. In brief: I will not use your address and I will not forward it to nobody).

  • a little weekend draw

    ===ADDITION: January 25, 2011. THIS DRAW IS CLOSED===
    = =The winner is Marianne, second comment on this post==
    = THANK YOU ALL FOR PARTICIPATING,and good luck the next time!=

    Dear all

    we have guests for a while (until mid next week) and hence  my blog writing is a bit hampered. Thus, I figured we could do a little draw.

    In order to make this draw a bit special:  You can win a Cologne du Maghreb. This fragrance is all natural, all botanical. It is a classical cologne that is incredibly rich and fresh and long lasting due to hints of vetiver, cistrose and cedarwood from the High Atlas.

    You can win 50 ml of it, in a simple flacon, packed in cardboard box. And you cannot get it anywhere else for the time being.

    The only thing you have to do: Leave a comment here. I will pick the happy winner using random.org and I will do so next week.

    Thank you for commenting and have a lovely weekend everybody. And good luck!

    (for our privacy policy: See details here. In brief: I will not use your address and I will not forward it to nobody).

  • details on rose absolute

    This morning, reading the comments section of yesterday's post, I wondered how many roses are needed for the rose absolute that I poured into the mixture of the Incense rose.

    The mixture I did yesterday is for about 500 flacons later (25 liters) and I put about 183 grams of rose absolute into it. This is a heavy fragrant, viscous, dark red, expensive liquid. In every flacon of the Incense rose you find rose absolute, worth about 1.2-1.4  $ US. Compared to industry standards this alone is much more than what you get somewhere else for the entire mix. Equally expensive, by the way, is the Ambroxan that you find in the Incense rosé. I put a lot! of this synthetic ambergris material into it, and I use it in a high quality that has its price of about 1.3 $US per flacon. Quality can make quite a difference when it comes to synthetics.

    Anyhow: I was talking about the roses.

    The amount of rose absolute that I put in the Incense rosé corresponds to about 185 kg of rose petals.

    It comes from about 800 rose bushes.

    It uses a little less than 1 tenth (1/10) of a hectare, this means these roses grew on 1000 m2.

    Isn't this fascinating?

  • a box of fragrant stuff for Incense rosé

    Yesterday, I got all the production bottles from the cold cellar, for the production of another batch of Incense rosé. Today, with all chemicals and raw materials on room temperature I will mix, and hence no condense water will be forming inside when opening the aluminum bottles.

    These aluminum bottles look totally unsexy and unromantic, but they are incredibly practical. No light comes through them, aluminum is 100% inert and will not react, and they do not break. When we emptied them, I recycle them in the metal recycling.

    The Incense rosé is one of the more complex perfumes I have, and I am always very happy when  I finished the mixing. The base is incredibly rich, and mixing it is not always a pleasure. These resins and oil can be to much and I always wear gloves.  Today our scent theater will feature heavy doses of incense (Boswellia serrata Carbon Dioxide extract), ambreine, vetiverol, labdanum resionoid, vanillin, myrrh, patchouli, cedarwood from Texas, and more....

    Other tasks today: Finish the boxing of perfume for orders, doing paper work and doing a lot of excel work for price calculations in light of the EURO -£-$ -CHF exchange rate mess.

  • self sustaining communication circles

    today, I continue boxing and preparing orders for pick-up later this week and next week. Thus, this post is short, but comes with a punch line. In between, when I cannot sit straight and patiently anymore, I will dilute the next batch of Vetiver dance, one of the most under-appreciated perfumes in my line. At least when it comes to the online discussions and online sales. In the "real world" with perfumeries, people presenting scents to people, peoples actually smelling it, this vetiver fragrance of mine does better. Actually, it will never be a top seller, but there are folks who like it.

    There is a difference between online and real world that I find interesting.

    In the online world, there this vetiver dance fragrance is almost not existing. I have been thinking a long time about this. I see it with other fragrances from other brands and I feel I see this anomaly also with entire other brands that seemingly do not exist in online discussions. Entire brands do not get the online press that (I think) they deserve.

    I think, people partly blog and write and express themselves about fragrances and brands that others write and blog about and express themselves.

    It is a self sustaining communication.

    Partly this is steered by PR. Partly it is a community phenomenon.

    But it is different to what happens in the brick and mortar shops when it comes to sales.

    Can it be that the online and brick and mortar retailer oriented consumer shops differently due to this?

    Isn't this fascinating?

    (Addition: The picture shows you the 2010 X-mas tree in the Gallerie Lafayette, in Paris)

  • Inspiration lingers everywhere and a pre-spring cleaning of a clustered desk

    So it felt like early spring yesterday. The sun got through the early morning fog and it got warm and it truly felt like spring for a moment. Actually, I only wanted to get rid of a few pieces of paper on my desk, but what started innocently as a little engagement turned into a battle and lead to an empty desk. Cleaned of everything that is not needed anymore. It is free from any past activities. Most of them were 30 ml glass vials with perfume trials. I had a lot, really a lot of them.

    While getting rid and reorganizing all the remnants of past searches, of despair  and painful trials I grouped all perfume experiment vials:

    The Linden blossom related: All gone to heaven, except for the final version.

    The fire tree essential oil related searches, discussed on the open letters with Mandy Aftel in Nathan Branch's blog: I keep all them, but put them aside as I have a version that needs to mature and that I consider sort of finished.

    A secret perfume development: Same situation ... I consider it sort of finished.

    A secret perfume development : 90% finished and put aside for fine tuning in the coming weeks.

    All rose soap trials neatly put together and stored away.

    Another secret perfume development, on which I worked for 2 years: finished, and all experimental in between versions gone to heaven except for the final perfume.

    My desk is empty. I have enough fragrances to launch for two years. And with the empty desk I feel like starting new compositions. Inspiration lingers everywhere, for instance in the kitchen (see picture of today...)

    I wonder where this will end.

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