Monthly Archives: October 2010

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  • tauer (s)centric discussions

    First: The draw for an early X-mas soap is closed and we have a winner: Kelly (4h...@...). Congratulations to you, an e-mail is on its way to you, too!

    And for all others who did not win: Thank you and please stay tuned.  And a thank you for all your comments. It sure feels good!

    Today, I write about a meeting I had yesterday, about the design of a scented card. Very tauer centric, sorry. But first things first....

    We decided last week to launch the CARILLON POUR UN ANGE in 30 ml, as part of the HOMAGE line. I planned to do this anyhow some time, but now we know: By May 2011 it will be ready in the 30 ml format. As my fellow Italian perfume lovers had basically no chance to experience this fragrance in the past and to test a new tool: I decided to make a few thousand scented cards for Italy.

    I learned about these by SCENTIS, a French company, making paper strips and more; among the more are scented cards: about 7.5x11 cm, made of special, high quality paper without glue and extra long fibers. This paper is what makes Scentis special and where they are unique in the world. This paper absorbs fragrances and releases them over days and weeks. Yes. Weeks. I got a sample card and it is truly amazing how long the scent lasts, and how close to the original it remains. Amazing. Thus, we will get scented cards, with a relief print and some text on it. One side will feature the brand (Tauer, IMMERSIVE SCULPTURES) and the other side will be product specific, but without any notes. Just the name and the color code. An invitation to smell, each individually packed into little polypropylene bags for me without me doing anything. delivered to my house in February, provided the first tests with the fragrance are successful. I cannot wait...

    Today's picture is tauer centric, too. It shows you a detail of what I have seen all evening yesterday, while polishing Incense extrême flacons.

  • on soaps

    Yesterday was Sunday, and I used the opportunity of a a grey post-jogging Sunday afternoon to run the first series of 50 soaps: To see how long it takes and to make sure that there is enough time. You remember? I have made a deal with a local apothecary and provide them with 800 scented glycerin soaps, called "MANDARINES AMBRÉES",   a lush rich citrus scent with a hint of ambergris, as a give-away for X-mas for their clients. Thus, we are sitting here with our 100 kg of soap...

    In a sense the scent of the soap, together with the orange blossom core in  "eau d'épices", is the mother of the fragrance "orange star". Anyhow.

    We made 45 soaps yesterday, poured them, cut them into 6x8 cm, 100 gr. pieces, wrapped them in cellophane plastic, wrapped them into printed, prefolded paper, stick them into a polypropylene bag, and seal it with a lot number. Sounds like an effort? Yes, it is. A bit.

    But then, I think, it is a great marketing tool and a test run for the soaps again, with a clientèle that has not heard and sniffed a "tauer" before.

    And, as we promised to have the soaps ready in a month: You will see me wrapping soap quite frequently these days. And -no kidding!- it is quality time, allowing me to do some serious thinking on a few scents in experimental state. Like the perfume built around Linden blossom, discussed yesterday on Nathan's blog.

    To celebrate the first 45 soaps: I pick (with a winner of one of the these freshly packed soaps, in the coming days from the comments in this post. If you wish to enter the draw: Just leave a comment here, on this post. If you are the lucky winner, we will contact you by e-mail (you maycheck our privacy section for any question about your privacy, click here). This draw is open...

    This draw is closed now (20.10.2010). Thank you to all who participated. The winner is Kelly (4h...@..). Congratulations to you!

    today's picture: a look into the box with the packed soaps.

  • Letters to a fellow perfumer (2)

    Back from Grenoble! It was  a bit of a drive down there and back in a day, but true worth it. More on this trip later. There is hope for Tauer in France...

    I have perfect reading recommendation for your weekend:
    Mandy Aftel and Andy Tauer's Letters to a fellow perfumer. Continued here on Nathan Branch's blog.
    Letter round 3
    Letter round 2
    Letter round 1

    And we continue putting some perfumes into boxes. And while we do so I have time to think a bit more on the Linden blossom.As you may find out reading letter 2 and 3: I got a first version that seems to hold together. It needs to mature a bit, and we hope it will turn right.

    With fragrant greetings, as always: Enjoy your weekend and your reading!

    Today's picture shows you some flacons, pre-polishing state.

  • TM

    Before I got to Grenoble tomorrow, to discuss my offer with a potential retailing partner, not sure whether by car, though, due to some of the French folks on strike: Here a happy news!

    Sort of.

    Today, I got another letter from my Swiss lawyer, sending me the copy of the international protection confirmation (EU, US) of protection of the tauer logo and the design protection of the flacon. In Switzerland the brand name, the logo and the flacon is protected since a while. This, together with the protection of the brand name t-a-u-e-r got sort of necessary. Actually, it feels not 100% right. I rather like to invest my money into fragrant things. But then, I learned in the past, that this protection acts like an insurance of all the money you invest into a brand and the design.

    And, as I am sort of clueless, my US lawyer (who took care on the tauer name protection thing as the US protection is more tricky) told me that I can  use the TM there and for the logo and the flacon, from now on.

    OK.  There we go...

    welcome to the tauer TM blog.

  • from the kitchen to the street

    with the days getting shorter and the temperatures reaching single digits in the morning, you open the newspaper these days and get all the ads about how to live with a nice couch. Or how to cook nicely. Or how to nestle down. I am less a couch person, but a lab guy. The shorter the days, the more time I spend on my bench playing with scents. At least when the sun has gone down. No idea why this is.

    Thus, yesterday, after having finished the first order for my Hongkong distribution partner, I continued working on the Linden blossom. More on this delicate lady follows shortly on Nathan's blog, where Mandy Aftel and I are exchanging some thoughts and ideas on perfumery and on raw materials such as the Linden blossom.

    Is there a need for yet a new tauer? To be honest: nope. Not really. Yesterday, in my meeting with the design guru, where we decided what we will launch in 2011, I addressed this point: We need to find a way to bring stuff from the kitchen to the street. Something like seasonal wear. I guess how to proceed there is work in progress and needs some thinking. And so do the launches for 2011, thus I ask you for your patience there.

    Today's picture shows you a close up of what blooms inside tauer house these days: An orchid of unknown name, pretty much without any fragrance

  • colors

    Today I am in an early meeting with my designer guru from the designers club, discussing the launches of 2011, primarily the autumn launches. A few tough decisions ahead. ... I hope to be able to talk about the upcoming launches as soon as a few decisions are taken.

    Thus, what could be better than presenting you a leave that I picked up from the the ground, yesterday, during my evening jog around the block and some 15km more.

    After this meeting with the guru follows a sniffa meeting, a getting together with one of the best perfumers there is in this world: Vero, Vero Kern, founder and perfumer and nose and everything of vero.profumo.I can't wait to share some impressions of London and a few goodies.

    I guess that 's it for today. More after the meetings.

    Enjoy your autumn day!

  • a sixty second man

    I am back from Heathrow and in full speed motion again after a few great relaxing days. The two getting together (with folks from Les Senteurs and Scent and Sensibility) were fun and we explored the two new fragrances: The ROSE VERMEILLE and the L'EAU D'ÉPICES. And again, mea culpa, I forgot that these the scents are actually totally new for the UK market. I mentioned it to a few visitors: I am living in a time shifted world. My most intense thoughts these days go to -besides the shipments of orders- the launches of 2011. Thus, yes, we looked at the new kids in town, and I tried to explain a little bit the thrill and challenges of perfume creating and making, also showing a few molecules and essential oils: Raspberry keton, irone, vanilla CO2 extract, Sandalwood oil and the rose oil that goes into the rose vermeille. Getting quite a few aaaah's and ooo's with the vanilla....

    Especially at les Senteurs, where we discussed the entire line, we talked a lot about contrasts, and bridge building: Concepts used by me in perfume creation.

    And we talked about the "60 second fragrances", the scents that sell in 60 seconds, for instance in duty free shops, and they sell  because they are made to be sniffed and bought. I had quite some waiting time in Heathrow yesterday. I spent it almost entirely in the perfume department, trying to get rid of a few sales reps. One was, no joke, asking me whether I need help, not even looking at me, and 1 second later she said to her colleague: " I sold 10 of this this morning. Just like that. Fools." She realized a moment later that I was looking at her. She walked away.

    But it was fun, and I sniffed my way round, including sniffing my "Joop pour home" again, that is so eighties and brings back a lot of memories. I almost bought it for that reason. And I sort of liked a few perfumes that I haven't sniffed before. I guess I am a 60 second man, too. I guess we all are, from time to time.

    Today's picture: A snap shot from Heathrow, playing with the iphone, while waiting for the gate to be announced.

  • leaving work bench for a while

    I am busy with the last minute preparations before leaving for London in an hour or two. And, to be honest, I am leaving happily, also in light of the last few days that were really, really, really busy.  Looking forward to fish and chips or alike, a pint and getting together with lovely folks at Les Senteurs, and Scent and Sensibility. And launching the two new fragrances, UNE ROSE VERMEILLE, and EAU D'ÉPICES in town. Although this feels sort of special: With my mind on spring 2011 and beyond, it feels like a thing of the past, almost.

    Like summer 2010. When did this summer happen?

    Ok, well then: let us hit the plane and get there.

    I wish you a lovely time, until next week.

  • 95%

    95 % of orange peel oil (sweet quality, Florida or Messina) is  Limonene. Isn't this amazing. In the remaining 5% must be the components that make sweet orange oil unique, because limonene alone smells like a neutral citrus. Think household cleaner.

    I got samples of two qualities of sweet orange peel oil: one from Florida and one Messina. The later is a bit more bitter and zestier. The Florida quality is a bit sweeter. In the certificate of analysis you find a few other components besides limonene, such as Pinene, Sabinene, Myrcene, Ocatanal (=fruits), Decanal, Linalool, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol. And these are just the most important components (and also EU allergenes).

    This is the fascination of working with natural essential oils: They are so complex. And then there is grapefruit, there is lime, there is yuzu and mandarines, and clementines. Take the same Limonene at high percentage and add a few other its and bits and you end up with a grapefruit or  a lemon peel oil. Isn't his amazing?

    You see: I am in a full blown citrus phase these days. One reason: I am planning the annual scent apero in December in the back of  my mind, thinking "CITRUS".

    Today's picture: A scan of a lemon. Enjoy!

  • it's the rosmary or nada silage bomb

    For a variety of reasons, desperately falling in love with neroli lately being one of them, I work on an eau de cologne. Or a "cologne". So far, my cologne trial was very, very classical, and a typical eau de cologne. An explosion of citrus right in front of you. Eau de colognes in the real, classical, sense are not made to last. They are made to enjoy for a moment or two. Nada silage bomb. Call it a citrus bomb without much collateral damage 5 minutes after application.

    I have a composition, a classical eau de cologne, that is quite lovely by now, all natural /botanical by the way. Featuring lemon and bergamot, white grapefruit (tons of the three of them), clementine, red mandarine, neroli, a touch orange blossom absolute, some rose and geranium, hints of lavender,  clary sage, a few other bits and: Rosemary. And it is the rosemary that makes all the difference. I am using a rosemary from Tunesia, rich in cineol and campher.

    Like in all perfumery, it is about contrast; this is true for a cologne, too. A cologne lives by the contrast between rough, campherous, wild rosemary (and/or thyme and other campherous scents) and the freshness and juicy brightness of the citrus notes.

    Right now, I am moving forward from there: create a cologne that lasts a bit longer and set a more unique accent, like building a fine layer of woods. The goal is not to touch the explosion of citrus, with close to zero silage, leaving only the finest layer of rockrose and cedarwood on the skin. The wearer will not realize it after a while, people passing by will not notice, but it will be there if you get a touch closer. I am staying all natural/botanical here: only steam distilled essences or solvent extracted flowers.

    Today's picture shows you a rosemary, somewhat pale, seen in the wild in southern France 2010.

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