Welcome to a perfumer's blog on perfumery

Lui means “he” in italian.
And Lei means “she”.

Writen together like in “LuiLei” it may still sond italian, but it isn’t really. It is more a signal post for a nice concept, a stylish shop and a cool web page and most important: Lovely people building up a business of their own.

Thus, whenever you come close to one of the most thrilling cities in the world, please stop by at LuiLei’s in Brooklyn and get a sniff of Tauer Perfumes there. Or visit them online.
Fragrant wishes

Right now, somewhat behind schedule - like in in all things I do lately- I am answering a few interview questions. And one did not let me go…dealing with synthetics in my perfumery work. Why I employ man made compounds. Well, why not?
I remember my first “real” perfume, a heavy orange flower, smoky , spicy blend, that lasts for ever on skin, for sure not IFRA compatible (too much eugenol, I’d guess) but still one of W.’s favorite.
If I compare this with later fragrances where I employed synthetics: worlds apart! Looking at it from a distance: It is the inner light that is missing. If I would do this fragrance again, I knew what to add and what to leave off….and trust me, it would not only be synthetics. But a few man made compounds might help it, like Lilial, adding a touch flower powder power, or a hint ambroxan to make it ambra-woody lighter, more vibrant….

A final remark here: The more I think about it, the more I find the distinction between synthetics and naturals obsolete. It is what you do with them.

And now: Back to the interview questions….

I am still considering the critic I got for my Lavender; I posted about it last week and here is the second part of this critic:” My very first impression (to which Roudnitska attached so much importance) was that I wasn’t going to like it much. That is because it has that apple-strudel quality which you find in so many oriental mens fragrances, which I do not happen to care for. That is me of course, and probably means it would find favour with others since this type of note is so well accepted. I think of it as apple strudel, it is that spicy-cinnamon effect.”
I think I know exactly what my critic meant when he wrote Apple-Strudel Quality and it is one aspect that I am not entirely happy with, too.

Thus, I am thinking about making a line in the lavender theme less strudel-like and instead bringing out more of a already exisiting fir line. Now: Fir or spruce is a tricky scent as there are too many car freshener, bathroom sprays and X-mas-in-a-second-sprays that contain a fir or spruce like scent. What a pity: Fir as scent is over-used, I guess.

I already employed a touch of fir cone essential oil in my lavender fragrance but want more; more also of a resinous, and green fir, that does not sound like x-mas. There is such a thing, called fir balsam, which is I get as absolute from Eden Botanicals, and it is of a wonderful green, balsamic spicy, slightly sweet quality, with a deep brown resinous undertone. It is from Canada, and hopefully this northern twist will allow me to close the gap, one of the last remaining gaps I hope…..

Pix: fir resin somewhere in the Swiss mountains.

Scientific American features a little scientist fragrance special. Here’s the preview, the whole article has to be paid, though…..
Uncommon Scents
A whiff at the plate brings up a bouquet of possibilities
By Steve Mirsky
New York Yankee great Derek Jeter usually comes up smelling like a rose. But according to mid-August news reports, Jeter will soon also smell like “chilled grapefruit, clean oakmoss and spice.” Those odors are the elements of the shortstop’s new men’s perfume–I mean cologne–to be sold under the name Driven. (It’s the scent that says, “I’m not stopping at second base.”)
Athletes thus join movie stars and other celebrities in having their own signature fragrances, for sale to the malodorous masses. But, although scientists are vital to the fragrance industry, there are no fragrances honoring them. So here are some suggestions for a new line of scientist-inspired scents. (…)

One goodie, copied from the article:
Isaac Newton’s Gravitas
Ingredients: Fresh-cut grass, royal mint and, of course, apple spice.
Slogan: For the man who likes his heavenly bodies as far away as possible.

I could think of some more categories, like the top composer’s perfume or the painter celb perfume or the banker celeb perfume or the ex-banker-now-in-jail celeb perfume….

Believe it or not, I had a rather impressive musky experience this weekend, on Sunday’s hicking trip.
As I was somewhat exhausted from last week I decided that I need some excercise, took the train on Sunday morning and landed on 1170 meters above sea level

in the rain….

But nevertheless, I start going up there, the rain finally stopped and I was all by myself. In search for clean air, good view and a decent place to eat my bread and sausage, I came accross Mr. Ibex, on his way down, in search of grass and some entertainment.

Passing by, about 5 meters next to me (I was sort of in his way), I could smell him for a second or so. At least I thought so. Then, Mr. Ibex would move on, following exactly the same path I went up to go down.

On the Lötschenpass on 2690 m above sea level, it was kind of cold. I realized that I was not really prepared for it on my way up, crossing the glacier. I was underdressed and decided to have a quick, very quick break. Thus, I went down again, realizing why we Swiss build tunnels: Without a tunnel, moving around in the mountains is hard work and after a while your knees start to fail.

On the other side of the mountain, the sun was shining and brought out the most magnificent colours of the season.

Just a few pictures… I was taking pictures like crazy, it was just too beautiful!

And the best about it: There was time to do nothing then walk and sniff and think about lavender. Hence, I hope to see some of my lavender thoughts materialize…

There won’t be a post today (and maybe tomorrow?) because ….hmm:

• I think I have reached a level of tiredness that needs to be cured, at the latest this weekend ;-)
• I think I do not have anything interesting to tell you
• I think, we will survive happily without…

Fragrant wishes

And here it is….my interview in 4 parts, the Wav files are all around 1 MB and best listened to by Win Media Player. Aehhh …Enjoy.
part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4

And here is the picture of my interviewer, Ms. Spescha with her lovely voice that sounds so much more professional than mine….

Aehmm…tomorrow is a first time again in my life. I have been on TV before, had my 5 minutes of fame beforehand in the US. I guess I am lucky therefore… I remember quite vividly, being in Boston, visiting an exhibition about gay life, when I and W. were interviewed about our thoughts….
Now, tomorrow, I will make contact to the world over a local Zurich radio station and …who knows… in 50 years to outer space inhabitants…. by my interview on Radio Energy. I am nervous. Imagine, what will they do, the little inhabitants of another planet out there where the radio waves will sooner or later end. Will they understand? Will they compare my perfume descriptions to other perfumes on their planet? Will they visit me in…100 years? I will give my best and make them come by as soon as they possibly can……

Here is a song that fits with my thinking….(it needs some bandwidth to download)
Wish me luck, please!

“The blend lacks the herbaceous quality of lavender and is complex, deep
fruity - with many resonances some pleasant - to pipe tobacco, plums, others
less so - cough mixture - most quite idiosyncratic. This is lavender, Andy,
but not as we know it….”

Above statement received me on Saturday, sent by John King after thorough tests and thinking on what was my latest trial on the lavender thing back then. Of course, John’s feedback was much, much longer and more thoroughly evaluating the lavender trial that I have sent him. For me, his words were a revelation in two ways: First, I love the idea to come up with a Lavender that perfume lovers identify as lavender, but in a way that is not known to them.

And secondly, I knew he is right. It misses the herbaceous quality. I was thinking about this issue when preparing dinner (spaghetti pesto) lately. Pesto (I use my own, home made pesto) is very herbaceous and green due to tons of basil of course, and a wonderful dish. The trick there, I suddenly realized: It is grounded by the nutty notes of olive oil and pine kernels. These nutty, soft, warm notes (with a hint of cheese and garlic) balance the green, spicy herbaceous basil notes. Thus, I will see to bring in some nutty notes….Ambrette seeds sounds like a perfect addition to me.

As a matter of fact, the kitchen is a perfect place for perfumers. And I have to do more thinking about another statement of John that is related with strudel…more about this statement in the coming days….

 

Thank you all for your lovely comments to my public appearance in Zurich’s Tagblatt. Which, by the way, might have the positive side aspect that I will have another appearance on one of the local radio stations… and even nicer: I got a few lovely phone calls and even letters by perfume lovers. I am kind of touched.

Thus, W. was nice enough to bring home some copies of the edition featuring Tauer. Within the pile of copies, there was a previous edition of the newspaper…. which brings things back down to earth. I did not want to hide this revelation…Well,  thank you W…