So?
So, I worked on the lavendel thing again, experimenting with the absolute, the concrete and some essential oils that I have got from all over the world. I am always very reluctant to work with my concretes for entirely practical reasons. Â
Concretes are rather waxy, due to the fact that these waxy plant components are very soluble in the aliphatic solvents used for the extraction process (like hexane). They are less soluble in alcohol, which results in precipitation respectively a non-dissolution of the waxy part of the concrete. When doing experiments which will later result in just  a few bottles : Easy! However, the filtration of lots of ethanol diluted concrete can become somewhat troubling.Â
But, as always in life, there is another side to it. Concretes are wonderful to work with. They often are the closest you can get to the natural scent.
So, I figured out a while ago that working with the essential lavender oil will probably not bring me there where I want to be. Nor will the absolute do the trick. Why is this? Because the concrete brings in the best of the two worlds. A fresh green spicyness with a campherous woody line and a dark green flowery note with a sweet tenacious coumarin line. Well, then: Be it… So, I am trying something new, because… I am not pleased with anything I got so far. More to follow for sure
September 18th, 2006 at 8:22 pm
Reading your blog entries is often like going to perfume school. I feel much smarter (about fragrances at least) since I have been reading your blog. This is wonderful because when the scent if finally released, I will feel like I struggled along the way with you and then can appreciate it more.
Keep up the good work.
September 18th, 2006 at 8:26 pm
Ah, well….thank you. I feel sort of honoured. It is a struggle, but somehow I like it that way.
And part of the goal is the way to get there.
September 18th, 2006 at 9:42 pm
Yes, Andy- thank you for teaching us !
I love the way concretes smell !
I fell in love with them over 30 years ago in Grasse, and I still enjoy their waxy richness, the feel on my skin, and the way they bloom…
I have to tell you, Andy- I’ve sniffed quite a few independent perfumers’ efforts recently, and I feel that yours are really complete, well-rounded, full works, not parfum manque [as many are, even big houses and big names!].
They are voluptuous and evolve on the skin, and originals in every sense of the word.
For my particular taste [and all tastes differ!], the L’Air should become a perfume classic; it possesses a remarkable, seductive personality that is timeless.
And now, for the spanking!
[Just a little humor- I don’t want to embarrass you with my effusiveness…]
September 18th, 2006 at 9:50 pm
You don’t embarrass me at all, dear Chayaruchama, and I have just learnt another new word: effusiveness! Hurray. I did not know until tonight (and I have my doubts I will still remember tomorrow….)