Asserted collection
I have a table that proofs the concept of ever increasing entropy (=mess) on a daily basis and every attempt to control the state of disorder there either fails or leads to an increasing disorder somewhere else.
Yesterday, five glass bottles joined the alu bottles and pipettes and stuff: I figured out it was time to bring in a somewhat different approach to my lavender trials. A different approach in the sense that the major story lines of the scent are prepared individually and then brought together, mixed to see where how things develop. So we are talking:
Woody amber, woody cedar, green lavender, rose, neroli and citrus-pine; or in a more complex way:
a1+a2+a3+…=A, b1+b2+b3…=B, …until f1+f2+f3….=F
And then:
xA+yB+zC+nD+mE+ oF + some more stuff= Fragrance mix.
A is a woody amber, B is a green lavender, C is a woody cedar line, D is a spicy, thyme enriched rose line, E is a flowery neroli mix, and F finally is a green citrus pine line.
Bottom line after a few hours: Very interesting. If everything fails….I can still go with my woody amber and the rose&thyme thing, that would be a dark rose…..hehehe. Trying to make one step aside, it looks as if the overall idea is ok. Outsiders might call it a “Tauer Thing”, because the ambergris mix turned out too dominant. The neroli helps together with the green stuff in the lavender itself to soothen the mix. And I can see how dangereous the methylpamplemousse turns out; I never realised this beforehand, but this guy needs to be controlled and a touch of Bergamot in the pine-citrus mix might solve this issue.
More bottles to follow.
Finally: For all my dear readers who are able to read Russian interviews….here is one for you: Andy Tauer interviewed by Sergej. You find my interview on the blog of Moon-fish, the interview was also published recently, I was told, in the Russian Magazin Cosmetic Market Today. Enjoy….
August 29th, 2006 at 3:22 pm
I have read that Lorenzo villoresi uses the same approach to mixing - he creates certain accords and then mixes them and fianlly polishes the mixture with some small additional ingredients. I tried it but it never really worked for me. However, I do use it in my mind (accord of this, accord of that). Hope it works for you - I went back to my lavender attempt now with a increase of the clary sage and minimizing the insence woody base to make a herbal smooth, slightly floral (white rose - phenylalcohol) lavender. It is so exciting - all the lavender scents I have tried lately (EAu de Lavande by Annick Goutal, Pur un Homme Caron, etc.) - all have a harsh beginning - something that I do associate mechanically with lavender. But I am sure yours will be different - your Orris was so unexpected that the lavender just can’t be something … conventional. Good luck!!!
Do you know of a european supplier other than Essencia (something in the EU preferrably since the tansfer of funds will be easier) that sells synthetics like Essencia?
August 29th, 2006 at 5:34 pm
Dear Konstantin
You mentioned rightfully…the harsh side of lavender. A difficult issue indeed and this side of lavender will also keep me busy for a while.
Thanks to essencia I am somewhat fortunate and can order all synthetics I ever dream of there. But I ordered once from Biolande in France via a german company. They have naturals and some synthetic mixtures that they call reconstitutions. I was happy with the quality, but not with their certificiates. The prices were ok.the website: www.biolande.com
maybe you should (if not the case yet) contact jenny’s perfumemaking yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/perfumemaking/
I am confident you will find answers there.
August 30th, 2006 at 2:11 am
Have you tried Luten’s Gris Clair yet, Andy? Just curious. I think you’d find it lovely. It’s one of those fragrances that makes me wonder how some folks can pronounce that lavender is a passé note. Gris Clair is subtle, transparent, and it’s not your grandma’s lavender, that’s for sure.
August 30th, 2006 at 9:51 pm
hehehe…you read my mind, Katie. This Saturday, Andy will go out sniffing some Lavender perfumes in my favourite perfumery in Zurich, Osswald’s.
Luten’s Gris Clair… an excellent tip. Keep you posted…..
August 31st, 2006 at 5:32 pm
Scientific methods are good…
I love the materials you are choosing to work with.
And, Boo, Hiss, I never learned Russian [at least, not yet!]. How sad.
I’m afraid that Gris Clair and I don’t see eye to eye- I crave Mysore, not Australian sandalwood [politically incorrect as that may be], and Encens et Lavande is a soulmate.
I’m eager to smell the outcome !
September 22nd, 2006 at 10:40 am
Another really nice, cool and original comment.
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